The Ultimate Scented Set Up
When we love something we love it; yes occasionally we may get a bit bored but we tend to come back to it in the end. Sometimes we forget and it takes a reminder or sometimes we get a little bored and need a ‘sidestep’. Think of this idea a little like a sequel to a film we love. In perfumery this idea, this little ‘faceted scent’ is referred to as a Flanker. Find out more about this in An Ultimate Scented Set Up
Image on left hand side, and below Samantha Inman @rememberingtobreathe
A flanker is a variation of an existing perfume or cologne, introduced as a new edition but retaining the original’s main theme or essence. The perfume will contain most of the original notes but may well have an added facets or a fragranced twist, that doesn’t drastically change the original but does bring a new balance, similar yet different. Flankers allow for a nuanced version of a beloved scent, offering new chapters and interpretations for fans to explore.
Its not quite the bands ‘second album’ but it is the second series of a favourite TV show; a new chapter if you like, for lovers to explore. Some flankers are special editions that may not last forever, while others may sit on the shelves with the classic for years. After all, a name that is known by the consumer feels far safer in a world full of constant newness.
So the idea that this is a commercial idea to bring in more revenue on an existing fragrance is one part of it, but also perfume flankers are popular because they do allow for new customers to find them or existing customers to explore new perfume notes. Bare in mind that the perfume may well need to be reformulated in order to get just the right balance so there is a level of investment in time and money when creating Flankers.
But there is the other end of the scale here too. Flankers are often seen in big perfume houses so how do the Niche brands, the smaller houses also keep the fans happy? Well the other end of the scale is the world of Extraits, which has exploded in the last few years. Why?
Eau De Parfum sales surged during the pandemic, consumers wanted more in the way of little luxuries, and fragrances were seen as a way to escape difficult times. Also people after the covid period wanted to get noticed for the scent they wore and the higher the strength the more likely…After all is a toilette water, an EDT is around 10% to 15 % and the EDP 15% to 20%, so it totally makes sense.
Extrait de Parfum is the most concentrated style of fragrance it can be anything from 20%, 30% and upwards to 40% or even more. This makes the scent even more potent and longer-lasting and just like any other ‘version’ it needs to be reformulated in order for it to be a sucess.
It is certainly NOT about just added in more perfume oils it is a delicate process of rebalancing, meaning the extrait may be ever so slightly different but full of more beauty, power and pizzazz.
The perfect example of expressing the essence of a scent and the different facets that can be explored is the remarkable Chanel N°5, and her five ‘sisters’. Not twins of course but five siblings each with their own unique traits but each beautiful on their own.
Gabrielle Chanel asked Ernest Beaux, the nose of the scent to create “a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent” in 1921 he created it. In 1986, Jacques Polge, the CHANEL nose at the time reinterpreted his predecessor’s composition to create a fuller version of N°5: the Eau de Parfum.
Chanel N°5, probably the most famous perfume in the world have five variations, allowing different facets of the original scent be explored. Here the original is an essence of femininity. This iconic floral aldehyde is housed in an iconic bottle with a minimalist design. A signature composed around The May Rose and sultry Jasmine opens with brightness from citrus top notes. But it is the Aldehydes that create its undeniable presence, and incredibly sensual trail.
After N°5: the Eau de Parfum came N°5 Eau De Toilette a woody, lively expression, then N°5 eau première an airy and luminous version. And finally Olivier Polge the current nose at Chanel created N°5 L’EAU. Less abstract than its forebears, the composition of N°5 L’EAU radiates citrus like sun-drenched honey. Top notes of Lemon, Mandarin and Orange soar melding with aldehydes. This of course meets with Rose airy Jasmine and a new fraction of Ylang-Ylang. Behind these pictorial notes find rooty Vetiver and and woody Cedar softened by white musks notes. This is the freshest take on this most important iconic Fragrance.
Another of the key perfumes from the House of Chanel is the Chance collection. This line of fragrances for women was introduced in September 2002 and was created by Jacques Polge. Chance Eau de Toilette was the first fragrance in the collection. Opening with top notes of Citron and pink Pepper, a floral heart of Jasmine absolute, powdery delicious Iris absolute and Hyacinth; falling into a base of Amber, Patchouli, white musk and Vetiver with Chance Parfum released the same year. Then came Chance Eau Fraiche, in 2007, followed by Chance Eau Tendre then Chance Eau Tendre Eau de Parfum in 2019.
Left hand image Chance Eau Fraiche EDP this is the most intense with a freshness, resting on a deep, rich woody base. Opening brightly with zesty freshness of a citron accord, that unveils around and luminous floral heart, rich in majestic Jasmine. The vibrant presence of Teak wood, dense and Ambery, leaves a lingering trail.
Another house synonymous with flacons of hero scents is Dior. Miss Dior the original was created by the head of the brand Christian Dior in 1947 to accompany his collection The New Look. A delicious Floral chypre with Leather and Galbanum notes.
Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Parfum was launched in 2005 as a flanker to Miss Dior ideally to draw a younger audience It was developed by the house’s then nose Christine Nagel. In 2009, François Demachy as the in-house perfumer, released a flanker to Miss Dior Chérie called Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau. In 2010, Dior released an eau de toilette version of Miss Dior Chérie, which also advertised additional floral notes as a twist on the original.
In 2011, Miss Dior and Miss Dior Chérie (eau de parfum) underwent significant changes. Miss Dior was revised and reimagined by Demachy and this fragrance was renamed Miss Dior Original, and Miss Dior Chérie became simply Miss Dior.
Since then there has been Miss Dior Parfum, an intense floral, with fruity and woody notes. Miss Dior Eau de Parfumn with floral and fresh notes, Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet EDT described as having fresh and tender notes. Alongside there is Miss Dior Rose N’Roses intense with sparking notes, and Miss Dior Rose Essence, with Fresh, Floral and Woody Notes. Of course the original still exists in the form of an Extrait de Parfum. Featured here is the newest Miss Dior.
The new perfumer Francis Kurkdjian reinvents the legendary chypre fragrance of the original Miss Dior. This composition blends floral and fruity accords with voluptuous notes of Ambery woods. A Jasmine with rare facets, obtained by the house reveals a surprising rosy and fruity note that contrasts with the woody tones and is brightened by hints of Mandarin. The Miss Dior Parfum bottle is adorned with a ‘poignard’ bow woven from Lurex threads and the emblematic Miss Dior houndstooth motif envelops around the bottle in shimmering pink tones.
Les Eaux Primordiales by Arnaud Poulain offers fragrances in a different approaches to most scent brands. His five collections are made up of the Superclassique, Supercritique, Superose and Supermassive, as well as The Superfluide collection. The superfluid highlights the most beautiful materials of perfumery to make perfumes with remarkable properties. Amongst spices, resins and precious woods, each element sublimates these superfluids and offers compositions with a strong power of attraction.
Left hand side Les Eaux Primordial Ambre SuperFluid Evoking a long winter’s day spent by the fire. The aromas of Apple and Cinnamon pie and Gingerbread wafting in from the oven. Ambery notes of spices and Honey introduce character and softness into this comforting moment. The harmony of Rum and Tobacco adds a sweet and intense touch to the enchanting elixir. It opens at the top with Honey, Apple, Cinnamon, Sesame, Bergamot, falling into a heart of Cardamom, Fir Balsam and sits in a base of Amber, Vanilla, Black, Tobacco, Rum, Benzoin
Gucci Flora is another example of exploring facets of an idea within perfumery and comes in both classic and limited edition versions. Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardinia is feminine, floral, soft and pretty fragrance and was launched in 2021 by by Honorine Blanc and Alberto Morillas Gucci Flora Gorgeous Jasmine was released in 2022 by Alberto Morillas, with Jasmine, Magnolia, Pink Tangerine an elegant sexy version. Gucci Flora Gorgeous Magnolia, was launched in 2023 and was created by Daphné Bugey and Marie Salamagne. Top notes are Dewberry and Coconut; middle notes are Magnolia, Jasmine Sambac and Clary Sage; base notes are Musk, Patchouli and Blonde Woods. The latest add on to the collection is Gucci Flora Gorgeous Magnolia
Gucci Flora Gorgeous Magnolia is the first ozonic floral gourmand fragrance of the House, with an innovative approach that infuses this gourmand scent with a fresh perspective on Vanilla. The creation weaves together the familiar sweetness of Vanilla with notes imparted through the Ozonic Accord. This unconventional fusion further highlights the luminous sensuality of Vanilla Orchid, elevating its gourmand richness to new heights. Thanks to its unique blend of notes, the creamy floral dimension that emerges from the fragrance is infused with airy brightness. Notes go from a Vanilla Duo, via Vanilla Orchid to a base of an Ozonic accord.
Then comes the Marc Jacobs Daisy group of perfumes. Launched in 2007, the original Marc Jacobs Daisy fragrance a floral-woody scent and whimsically presented in a white daisy bottle. Since then, the Daisy ‘sisters’ have expanded to include four key scents, and some limited-editions such as Black Daisy, Daisy Kiss, Daisy Dream Kiss and Daisy Dream Forever. Flacons include Daisy Eau So Fresh 2011, Daisy Dream 2014, Daisy Love 2018 Daisy Sunshine 2019 and Daisy Love Sunshine. Each scent is unique, yet builds on the original fragrance with floral and fruity notes. The latest incarnation is Daisy Wild
Daisy Wild by Marc Jacobs is the freshest of this collection, think of a day of fun in the wild outdoors. It opens at the top with a rush of Banana Blossom Accord. which meets of course, a handful of flowers with Jasmine, and a nutty Macadamia Accord finalising its rush with soft wood of Sandalwood, delicious dry rooty Vetiver and Des Sables.
The journey of the original Chloe scent was released around 1975 and was a classic Karl Lagerfeld scent as he was head of the House then, but is now discontinued. The newer Chloé Eau de Parfum was launched in 2008, created by Amandine Clerc-Marie and Michel Almairac. Top notes are Peony, Litchi and Freesia; middle notes Rose, Lily-of-the-Valley and Magnolia and base notes of Virginia Cedar and Amber
There has been Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense in 2009, Chloe Rose Edition in 2011, Chloé Fleur de Parfum was created by Michel Almairac and Mylène Alran in 2016, Chloé L’Eau Eau de Toilette launched in 2019 and Chloé Eau de Parfum Naturelle in 2021. There have been other versions with the latest flacon being Chloé L’Eau de Parfum Intense.
Chloé L’Eau de Parfum Intense is a Floral Fruity fragrance opening with rich fruity Raspberry, with its heart of Rose seen here as AM version green and slightly crisp, at midday rich and deep, and the honeyed evening Rose, with its sensual, addictive accents. This follows to a base of warmth ambery woods unfolds, alongside Ambrox that brings its musky, woody notes, Cashmeran offers its voluptuous sensuality, and Cedar reinforces the fragrance’s unique character.
Once again into the realms of niche perfumery and these new popular set of Extrait extensions. Australia’s only niche brand Goldfield and Banks has Silky woods, one of the brands best sellers. An Amber Spicy fragrance for women and men. Silky Woods a luxe and modern interpretation of Agarwood was launched in 2021 with Dimitri Weber working with the nose behind Hamid Merati-Kashani. The perfume house combines the science of Australia’s most authentic native and botanical essences with centuries of French expertise in the art of perfume making; designed to create the ultimate Australian olfactory experience.
Silky Woods was named as a debut fragrance in the company’s new luxury collection called the Botanical Series and this particular scent was reimagined as an Extrait. Gone is the golden bottle of its first iteration and it is replaced with a bronzed version for the elixir.
Dark and excessive, Silky Woods Elixir is a smoky reawakening of the Australian agarwood originally used in Silky Woods Eau de Parfum. This exotic botanical is one of the most mysterious and revered essences in perfumery. Meticulously crafted with Fig Saffron and Orris, and syrupy Balsam to reveal both the complex heart of Agarwood and its verdant foliage, this woody and gourmand perfume is rich with luxurious intensity and sensuality. A woody and gourmand version with a smokey sexiness added to the vibe. The noses here Olivier Cresp &Hamid Merati Kashani.
This Elixir opens in flurry of green aromatics as verdant as the canopy of the Agarwood groves where its essence is born. Heightened by the lushness of sun-ripened Figs and Fig leaves, an overdose of the hypnotic essence of Australian-grown Agarwood. Oud Assafi elevates the Elixir with a lavish woodiness. The animalic and ambery notes from the Oud Assafi combined with the Australian Agarwood creates the ultimate luxurious and complex Oud experience. Against this resounding intensity, soft powdery Iris root lends its touch, taming the bitter effect of the fig leaves, with Rose lending an exquisite floral dimension to the perfume’s burgeoning heart. Tolu balsam weaves a rich tapestry, infusing warmth, and complexity into a gourmand base of Oud, Saffron, Musk, and Oakmoss.
French perfume company BDK is another small niche label hitting great heights with its extraits, understanding exactly that perfumes this good need to be ‘seen’ and smelt. This young independent niche perfumer, based in Palais Royal, Paris, has been going since 2016. Born in Paris in 1989 to a Romanian father and a mother from the border between Algeria and Morocco, David Benedek was immersed in the world of perfumery from an early age. With over 20 scents within the collection two have already been made as Extraits. Gris Charnel and Pas Ce Soir. Here we explore this Pas Ce Soir Extrait.
Pas ce Soir Extrait is enigmatic, capturing its ‘ghost’ through the full-bodied intensity of Resinoid Cocoa and the woody richness of Gayo Pure Jungle Essence Patchouli. An olfactory composition whose overdose is carried by mesmerising Jasmine absolute, blending with a touch of Quince chutney to create a deeply carnal and sensual signature. Its notes include shots of fiery spice with Black pepper essence, Ginger essence, Cocoa extract and then fruity Pear and Tangerine. Followed by a rich floral fruity heart of Moroccan Jasmine absolute, Quince chutney and Orange blossom. Before it settles into a base of earthy sexy Patchouli, Benzoin soft Cashmeran creamy Vanilla and animalic Ambroxan
Prada Paradoxe was launched in 2022, created by Nadège Le Garlantezec, Antoine Maisondieu and Shyamala Maisondieu. Top notes are Pear, Tangerine and Bergamot; middle notes are Orange Blossom, Neroli Essence, Neroli and Jasmine Sambac; base notes are Bourbon Vanilla, Amber, White Musk and Benzoin. A refillable feminine fragrance; an invitation to explore and express the multiple dimensions of identity.
Its latest incarnation is Prada Paradoxe Virtual Flower Eau De Parfum. This is a floral musky fragrance capturing the airy and luminous scent of Jasmine as perceived in nature.An avant-garde signature revealing fresh and zesty top notes of Vert de Bergamot from Italy, a lively flowery heart incorporating Jasmine AI accord and Neroli, and base notes of Musk and Ambrette for a comforting second-skin sensation
Burberry Goddess Eau de Parfum Intense for Women is the scaled up high frequency version of the original Goddess that was launched in 2023. The nose behind this fragrance was Amandine Clerc-Marie. Top notes are Vanilla, Lavender, Cacao and Ginger; middle notes of Vanilla Caviar; base note is Vanilla Absolute.
Burberry Goddess Eau de Parfum Intense is housed in a square bottle filled with a light ambery fragrance. The nose behind this fragrance is again Amandine Clerc-Marie. The signature trio of Vanillas from Goddess Eau de Parfum is amplified with a fourth Vanilla wood (vanilla SFE) that has a smoky character. When combined with luminous Lavender essence, it intensifies the scent with a vibrant woody aroma. Refill sold separately
One of the most iconic perfumes ever to come to market has to be Angel by Mugler. This Amber Vanilla fragrance for women was launched in 1992. Angel was created by Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chirin. It was t first perfume in a new group of scents called gourmand and it broke the mould of scents on the market. Top notes are Cotton Candy, Coconut, Cassis, Melon, Jasmine, Bergamot, Pineapple and Mandarin Orange; middle notes are Honey, Red Berries, Blackberry, Plum, Apricot, Peach, Jasmine, Nutmeg, Caraway, Orchid, Rose and Lily-of-the-Valley; base notes are Patchouli, Chocolate, Caramel, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Amber, Musk and Sandalwood. This perfume won the FiFi Award Hall Of Fame award in 2007.
The newest edition is Angel Fantasm by Mugler a Floral Fruity Gourmand fragrance for women launched in 2024. Top notes are Pineapple and Bergamot; middle notes are Coconut and Tiare Flower; base notes are Patchouli, Bourbon Vanilla and Amber. As before with other scents, this is an explosion of added extras. It features a captivating mix of juicy fruits, rich creamy coconut, and delicate Patchouli, enhancing Angel Eau de Parfum’s inherently sensuous characteristics to new heights. Encased in a mesmerizing black star bottle, a first in the Angel series, Angel Fantasm is a tribute to irresistible allure.
L’Interdit Eau de Parfum by Givenchy is a Oriental Floral fragrance for women launched in 2018. L’Interdit Eau de Parfum was created by Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Fanny Bal. Interstingly originally it was the first perfume creations of the house of Givenchy, with the legendary scent of L’Interdit from 1957, dedicated to actress Audrey Hepburn as the most significant muse of this fashion designer.
The 2018 perfume was re-built on the basis of contrast between a bouquet of white flowers (including Jasmine, Tuberose and Orange blossom) and intense woody and earthy notes of Patchouli and Vetiver. The concept behind the creation is the “thrill of the forbidden” and the challenge of crossing the line.
L’Interdit Absolu by Givenchy again is an explosion of an amber floral fragrance for women launched in 2024. Top notes are Guatemalan Cardamom, Neroli and Lavender; middle notes are Indian Tuberose, Jasmine Sambac and Orange Blossom; base notes are Tobacco, Rum, Haitian Vetiver and Patchouli.
Versace Pour Femme Dylan Blue a floral fruity fragrance for women was launched in 2017. Versace Pour Femme Dylan Blue was created by Calice Becker and Natalie Gracia-Cetto. Top notes of Granny Smith apple, Black Currant, Clover, Forget me not and Shiso; middle notes are Peach, Petalia, Rose Hip, Rose and Jasmine; base notes are Musk, White Woods, Styrax and Patchouli. Versace Pour Femme Dylan Turquoise was the second in the series for women and is a floral fruity fragrance launched in 2020. The nose behind this fragrance is Sophie Labbe. Top notes are Lemon, Mandarin Orange and Pink Pepper; middle notes are Guava, Freesia, Cassis and Jasmine; base notes are Clearwood, Musk and Cedar.
The latest in the series is Versace Pour Femme Dylan Purple. Floral fruity fragrance for women launched in 2022. The nose behind this fragrance is Christophe Raynaud. Top notes are fruity Pear, Bergamot and Bitter Orange; middle notes are Freesia, Pomarose and Mahonial; base notes are Ambroxan, powerful and additive Iso E Super, Virginia Cedar, Sylkolide and Belambra tree.
Flower by Kenzo is another famous scent. An Amber Floral fragrance launched in 2000. Flower by Kenzo was created by Alberto Morillas and Christian Dussoulier. Top notes are Bulgarian Rose, Hawthorn, Black Currant and Mandarin Orange; middle notes are Parma Violet, Rose, Opoponax and Jasmine; base notes are Vanilla, White Musk and Incense. A very popular perfume that has had many incarnations and always has great bottle designs, especially for the holiday seasons.
The newest a new chapter with is Flower By Kenzo Ikebana Sakura Eau de Parfum. This fragrance explores Japanese flowers, launching with the most Japanese of blooms, the Sakura flower. It was launched in 2023. Flower Ikebana Sakura was created by Alberto Morillas and Alexandra Monet. Top note is Buckwheat Tea; middle notes are Indian Tuberose and Cherry Blossom; base notes are Australian Sandalwood, Cedar and Vetiver.
The apple collection by DKNY has had many incarnations over the years. DKNY Be Delicious the initial Floral Fruity fragrance for women launched in 2004. The nose behind this fragrance is Maurice Roucel. Top notes are Cucumber, Grapefruit and Magnolia; middle notes are Green Apple, Lily-of-the-Valley, Tuberose, Violet and Rose; base notes are Woodsy Notes, Sandalwood and Amber. An ode to the women of New York a bright, fresh and energetic fragrance, bold, yet charming. After 20 years the its green Apple, fresh, crunchy, bursting with juice is still popular. A large number of flankers have been released over the past twenty years with the latest being Be Delicious Orchard St.
Be Delicious Orchard St was launched in 2023. An ode to the vibrant energy of New York’s Lower East Side, a lively fruity-floral fragrance inspired by the dynamic urban landscape. Radiating with vitality, the scent opens with the crispness of pink lady apple mingled with the zesty sparkle of pink grapefruit, creating a stimulating and refreshing burst. The heart reveals a blend of elegant Jasmine and velvety Orris, contrasting with the lush sweetness of black Raspberry and the tang of Pomegranate, embodying the multifaceted allure of femininity. The base notes of Cedarwood and Leather add a rich, textured depth that mirrors the intricate layers of New York City.
And finally rounding off the other fine and most loved fragrances starting with the Montblanc series. The original Explorer by Montblanc is a Woody Aromatic fragrance for men launched in 2019. Explorer was created by Jórdi Fernandez, Antoine Maisondieu and Olivier Pescheux. Top notes are Bergamot, Pink Pepper and Clary Sage; middle notes are Haitian Vetiver and Leather; base notes are Ambroxan, Akigalawood, Indonesian Patchouli Leaf and Cacao Pod. Described as a new male pillar fragrance that tells the story of adventures, quests for excellence, challenging conventions and exploring the four corners of the globe.
Explorer Platinum by Montblanc is a Woody Aromatic fragrance for men, again that celebrates adventure and exploration of the mountains via this powerful, textured woody fragrance launched in 2023. The nose behind this fragrance is Bruno Jovanovic. Top note is Violet Leaves; middle note is Clary Sage; base note is Cedarwood.
Calvin Klein CK One was another one of those truly explosive fragrances to hit the stores. It made massive headlines on its launch and was worn by everyone who thought they were cool. This Citrus Aromatic fragrance for women and men launched in 1994.
CK One was created by Alberto Morillas and Harry Fremont. Top notes are Lemon, Green Notes, Bergamot, Mandarin Orange, Pineapple, Cardamom and Papaya; middle notes are Lily-of-the-Valley, Jasmine, Violet, Rose, Nutmeg, Orris Root and Freesia; base notes are Green Accord, Musk, Cedar, Sandalwood, Green Tea, Oakmoss and Amber. Sold to a whole generation of women and men as a genderless fragrance long before the term gender neutral even existed.
Proving the point that flankers really work Calvin Klein’s new launch is CK One Essence, by Alberto Morillas, the same perfumer who created the original CK One. This version is a a more intense version of the original CK One fragrance, launched this year in 2024. Double the concentration of the original eau de toilette with top notes of Italian Bergamot and Blood Orange, with a heart of organic Green Tea, and a base of Sandalwood and up cycled Musk. A recyclable bottle with a translucent metallic finish
And finally Jimmy Choo. Several perfumes exist in the brand with the I Want Choo Jimmy Choo collection initially being in launched in 2020. An Amber Floral fragrance for women with the nose behind it being Sonia Constant. Heady and sweet with top notes of fruity Peach and Mandarin, and Orange. It’s heart centred on florals such as Jasmine and Red Lily with a creamy base note of Vanilla. A sweet, fruity scent, feminine and sexy just like the shoes and bags.
I Want Choo Forever is a Floral Fruity Gourmand fragrance launched in 2022. Created again by Sonia Constant but this version is also with Louise Turner. Top notes are Bitter Almond and Rose; middle notes are Cherry, Vetiver and Jasmine; base notes are Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Amber and Oakmoss. A fruitier more vibrant version of the original, with Luscious Black Cherry liquor, and Rose over a Chypre base.
If you enjoyed reading An Ultimate Scented Set Up why not read Dreams Become Reality Here
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