Antwerp, So Cool it’s Been Left out in the Breeze

The coolest Cities in the world list tends to remain the same, it’s always the obvious ones that get mentioned. Yes, London (where .Cent is based), Paris, Milan, New York, Barcelona and Tokyo so it has to be asked, what makes a city Cool? Is it culture? Is it History? Is it its ethnic diversity? Because if it is, there is one city that seems to get left out of the ‘cool list’ that so should be included. That’s Antwerp in Belgium, possibly one of the coolest cities ever. So why are we not all rushing to get there? Now is a great time to bring Antwerp in from the cold and into the cool. Find out more in Antwerp, So Cool it’s Been Left out in the Breeze here.

Like many of the great cities of the world, Antwerp has a river as part of its life, the Scheldt. Think The Thames in London, the Seine in Paris, and the Hudson for New York. Rivers bring trade, and trade brings money and diversity. Once a city has these ingredients in place it tends to thrive.

Antwerp and the river Scheldt (ca. 1890-1900)

But in all great cities, there is the underbelly, the hardship and poverty that often bring about creative solutions and artistic freedoms. And it is often these that bring a creative flair to the best cities in the world. Think of great cities that have a wonderful history of bringing in new communities that enrich the area with new diverse cultures. That’s what makes some of these important places so cool.

Those who make it to the top of the cool list are often a fusion between these multifaceted elements, a collision, if you like, of different worlds different thoughts and different ways of being.

No great place is made up of one facet. Usually, it is a plethora of reasons why it is so desirable. So for Antwerp with the river, trade and a location of strategic importance. Then, of course, there are the diverse communities that have made the city their abode. From Jewish To Jain via Armenian communities, a whopping 33.1 % of the city dwellers have non-Belgium heritage.

But one other lesser-known ingredient that makes for the magic of cool; is doing things first. Antwerp was the first city to have an exchange, opened in 1531 it was the world’s first purpose-built commodity exchange. They also hosted the first-ever Summer Olympics in 1920 and if that were not enough in the 11th century, the best-known leader of the First Crusade Godfrey of Bouillon, was originally Antwerp.

When a city adopts things first, it’s likely it will end up with a reputation for original thinking and this is often what makes for a wonderful and cool place to visit.

Current-day Antwerp is a hub of cultural activities, with fashion, music, food, art and architecture all at their most interesting. So what can you expect to find on a trip to this city of cities?

Find main thoroughfares to narrow lanes crowded with boutiques, tiny eateries and, of course, plenty of bijou bars, bursting with the considerable beer heritage of this small nation. This city also boasts many surviving architectural gems, in its churches, castles and civic buildings. Alongside so many cultural activities, it’s best to take time to plan a visit before arriving there.

The world of Art has deep connections here. The Antwerp School was a school of artists active first during the 16th century and then during the 17th century when it became the artistic stronghold of the Flemish Baroque under Peter Paul Rubens

Peter Paul Rubens The Four Rivers of Paradise or The Four Continents (c. 1615). Oil on canvas, 209 x 284 cm (82.2 x 111.8 in). Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna

The first school of artists that emerged in the city were the Antwerp Mannerists, active from about 1500 to 1520. Then came the Mannerist painters in the Italian tradition. There were the Antwerp Animaliers (the animal painters) all of whom made Antwerp the centre of the Flemish ancient art world.

The city plays a big part in the contemporary art world too with such names as Rinus Van de Velde, a drawing-based multidisciplinary artist best known for his monumental charcoal drawings, but also works in film, installation, sculpture, and recently pastel drawing.

Anne-Mie van Kerckhoven who works in painting, drawing, collage, video, and digital art. Luc Tuymans is a contemporary painter examining historical themes, narratives, and icons from a contemporary and painterly perspective, to name but a few.

Luc Tuymans, “Antichambre,” 1985. Collection M HKA – Collection of the Flemish Community.

As for Art Galleries, the city is full of them and these include, The Royal Museum of Fine Arts, with its Neo-Classical style, houses a vast collection of Flemish art from the 14th to the 20th century. The Rubenshuis, is the former home and studio of Peter Paul Rubens in Antwerp. It is now a museum.

The Museum Mayer van den Bergh, with works from the Gothic and Renaissance periods in the Netherlands and Belgium, including paintings by Pieter Brueghel the Elder. The Museum of Contemporary Art (M HKA), holds a permanent collection of contemporary art from Belgian and international artists, an arthouse cinema and an extensive library of books on contemporary art, and the Fotomuseum Antwerp, known as FOMU, is a museum of photography.

So that is just a handful of the art spaces available, let’s move on to architecture. Having been a wealthy city it is now made up of a blend of old and new, with a cultural heritage spanning from the Gothic and Renaissance periods to contemporary designs. It is a city to walk around or even cycle around but it’s the best way to see all the eye-candy buildings the city has to offer.

Let’s start with the central station if you are lucky enough to arrive in this city via train what a treat is in store. It is considered one of the most beautiful railway stations in the world and was constructed between 1895 and 1905. A vast dome building with stone cladding part Baroque, part Gothic part Cathedral it defies design words and is a must-see.

For something that is the other end of the time frame make your way over to The MAS. Opened in 2011 the largest museum in Antwerp is the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) museum,(Museum by the Stream) which sits on the waterfront dock area. Its façade is made of Indian red sandstone and curved glass panel construction and highlights that the city is not just made up of historical sites but modernity has an equal place.

Its collections range from maritime objects which document international trade and shipping, to the history, art and culture of the port city of Antwerp, alongside its relationship with Europe, Africa, America, Asia and Oceania.

There is Deco architecture such as Boerentoren (also called the KBC Tower) an 87.5-metre tall skyscraper built between 1929-32 in Art Deco architectural style. Find many religious buildings such as The St. Charles Borromeo, a beautiful Baroque church located at Hendrik Conscienceplein in Antwerp.

Then there is The bourse at Antwerp, opened in 1531 as the world’s first purpose-built commodity exchange.  Its latest incarnation, is as a venue with a restaurant, hotel and public passage.

But one of the simple joys of Antwerp is the architectural wonders not always so obvious. Take for example the printing museum. Now that may not call you but it’s an absolute must-see.

The Plantin–Moretus Museum is a printing museum that focuses on the work of the 16th-century printers Christophe Plantin and Jan Moretus.

Printing room of the PLANTIN-MORETUS museum

The Plantin-Moretus family began their printing office in the 16th century. 400 years on, our museum is still kept in the original house and workshops. Museum Plantin-Moretus is the only museum in the world to be inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. A visit to our site is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Christophe Plantin and his son-in-law Jan Moretus were a revolutionary publishing dynasty. The building’s oak planks and panels are melded with the history of books, and the art of printing. The oldest printing presses in the world can be found in the museum. But it’s the gardens that will catch your breath.

Photo by CEphoto, Uwe Aranas/© CEphoto, Uwe Aranas

The courtyard was even a tourist attraction in Plantin’s own time. Kings, princes and prominent figures came to visit. In the garden, visitors can see and smell the popular plants from the 16th and 17th centuries. This current version was created in 1992 to a late 16th-/early 17th-century model.

Again as with the world of art in Antwerp, there is a plethora of great architecture to view so what about its famous fashion connection? If you are not aware the city has a very famous fashion school the Royal Academy of Fine Arts which birthed the careers of such luminaries as Dries van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester.

The story goes that a group of six students who studied at the university between 1980m and 1981 drove a van to London to show and sell their collections in 1986. Initially, no one took much notice until they made some leaflets and handed them out. Because, it is said, they had difficult names the press labelled them the Antwerp Six. Although the work was diverse it was all cutting edge in its approach.

The full six, Dirk Van Saene, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee and Dirk Bikkembergs and Water Van Beirendonck all went on to have international careers whilst laying the foundation for another Belgium-taught fashion designer to have international acclaim including such names as Martin Margiela, Demna Gvasalia, A.F Vandevorst, Haider Ackermann, Kris Van Assche and Raf Simons.

Knitwear exhibition ONTRAFEL. Tricot in de Mode at the Fashion Museum (ModeMuseum, MOMU) in Antwerp, Belgium. The design is a dress by Walter Van Beirendonck, inspired by the colourful clothing of the Hui’an women of Quanzhou, China.

With such an impressive, global reputation the city now has a museum dedicated purely to fashion. MoMu (Mode Museum) Founded in September 2002, collects, conserves, studies and exhibits Belgian historical and contemporary fashion. It houses the largest collection of contemporary Belgian fashion in the world and stands out with its physically and emotionally immersive fashion exhibitions.

Prominent names from the contemporary international fashion world are also represented in the collection as well as a historical collection of Western European costumes and textiles.

In addition to the fashion and costume collection, the museum also houses a vast library collection. The MoMu Library is an academic library for historical and contemporary fashion, textiles, and ethnic costumes. With over 15,000 books, an archive full of valuable reference works, hundreds of contemporary and historical magazines, and a fast-growing digital database of images, the MoMu Library is one of the top in its field.

But this special space looks at fashion in the wider realm, from materials to machinery it also exhibits shows like its current photography show of fashion image maker Willy Vanderperre. Known for his pictures included in the most important style titles he has also worked for the most important designers on their campaigns like Dior Prada and others.

Julia, Document, #7, 2015, model: Julia Nobis, ©Willy Vanderperre.

This exhibition highlights a dialogue with his artworks that have been an important source of inspiration. Known for his fascination with youth and sub-culture, for his adolescent-inspired rebels caught in ‘moments’ rather than posed. This overview of his photographic practice, over three decades, explores the evolution of his visual language, as well as years of collaborations.

Alongside Willy Vanderperre has developed an associated programme with film, music and the launch of his limited collectable items in the form of drops for sale at the exhibition entrance.

Proceeds from sales will in part be donated to çavaria, the Flemish advocacy group for LGBTI+ people. çavaria is committed to the well-being, equal rights, and equal opportunities of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and intersex individuals.

Now it’s time to think about eating and drinking. Antwerp may not be as laden with local microbreweries and tasting rooms as some of the smaller parts of Flanders, but there are still a few places to visit. Best known is De Koninck Antwerp City Brewery

The De Koninck is the only main brewery in town. A modest building halfway along Mechelsesteenweg, in the centre of the town, that is conveniently open for tours.

The area has an incredible array of bars serving multiple brands from a cross-section of microbreweries from across the country. Often bar owners will recommend what to drink and what is good to eat with specific brews.

But if you prefer a more local experience and the weather is good that Saturday market, Vreemdelingenmarkt is so worth wandering around. Held every Saturday from 6am to 4pm at Theaterplein Oudevaartplaats 2000 Antwerp Belgium

This market is known for all its exotic stalls, alongside clothes, fruit vegetables, flowers, herbs, meat and fish with plenty of places to stop and eat. But the nicest part of the market is the cava and wine stalls, where locals meet each other on sunny days to drink, eat and snack including oysters, cheese, salamis, tapas style options and of course Belgian chocolate.

The country is, of course, known for its Brusselse wafels, Brussels-style waffles topped with icing sugar or other delights from chocolate to cream. Mussels and fries are arguably the unofficial national dish of Belgium, with the former cooked in many different ways, such as marinière or garlic cream.

But also check out other delights such as Antwerpse handjes, buttery, hand-shaped biscuits that refer to the city’s original myth. Created in 1934 by Jewish confectioner Jos Hakker in a competition to find a culinary emblem for the city, their shape and composition are now patent-protected.

Or why not try Garnalenkroketjes, or shrimp croquettes? The tiny North Sea shrimps are caught, immediately sieved, cooked and cooled on board the cutter ships. The city is also good (as is the country) at serving seasonal dishes, for example, the Asparagus à la Flamande Flemish-style asparagus. With a crumbly topping of boiled egg, doused in butter and lemon juice and a pop of chopped parsley for colour; a much-loved dish.

Should you like to sit rather than walk a great restaurant with a view is RAS. The surrounding Scheldt River and the docks make this restaurant’s view one of the finest in Antwerp. Find it at Ernest Van Dijckkaai 37, Antwerpen, 2000, Belgium. The modern cuisine follows the rhythm of the year, reflected in the seasonal suggestions.

The Michelin food guide has a great selection of places to eat for different price points and includes one, two and three-star restaurants included in their list.

Music clubbing and partying are also readily available in this city if that’s more your pastime. Live is Live, is a three-day music festival in Middenvijverpark, Linkeroever, Antwerp. Jazz club De Muze Antwerp’s most famous jazz café opened its doors in 1964 and still pulls in big crowds. At the Grote Markt, you will come across Kid’s Rhythm ‘n’ Blues Kaffee, an Antwerp rock bar with an American look & feel. Ampere, is located under Central Station and is a fixture for fans of house and techno. Then there is the Glamourous Villa Antwerp, Club Lima for R&B, and for a bit more of an underground experience visit Club Vaag or LGBTQ+ HessenHuis

So finally where to rest your head? There are plenty of hotels to choose from from super lux to boutique spots. Sapphire House Antwerp, is a hotel in the city centre that bursts with historic charm and 17th-century authenticity, with modern conveniences. It stands out for its Michelin-starred vegan gastronomy and chic bar.

But if you prefer something a little more intimate hotels then Hotel ‘T Sandt is the perfect option. This is a very personal and elegant sixteenth-century townhouse hotel with palatial suites decorated in sleek classic style and is a perfect spot for rest and recuperation.

The bedrooms are more than generous with lots of natural light, and each super comfy room is named after a famous hotel, so think The Mandarin Oriental, The Taj Mahal, The Ritz, The Lake Palace etc.

Filled with authentic elements that give it a special appearance and atmosphere, whether it be the front parlour with deliciously deep velvet seating or the breakfast bar, filled with goodies to start your day.

But its best addition is its private urban Italian-style oasis garden. When the weather is warm sit out here for a quiet breakfast or rest up here after a day out and about in the city and have a cocktail or two. A bonus is the Gin may well be one made by the family and if you are super lucky the owner of the Hotel Sandy (of the Sand Hotel on Sand Street) will serve you. Unlike nearly every hotel in any city, here the owner is hands-on, always present, ensuring that each guest is taken care of.

The Hotel T’Sandt is very central so is an easy location for getting around a tone that is best explored via foot or even like the locals by bicycle.

The best thing about going around the city is walking through passing a few of its lesser-known sites, like the Sint-Annatunnel, (the Pedestrian Tunnel). A historical gem, an underpass with authentic wooden escalators. Pass shops of homegrown talent like Dries Van Noten’s store Het Modepaleis’ (the Fashion Palace) a listed landmark building historically home to a gentleman’s outfitters, and an 1881 deco building that is quite breathtakingly beautiful. Around the corner pass a gem of a store dedicated to gloves, Gloves Boon.be with original wooden drawers that look like something left over from a century ago; it’s quite divine. Find divine 2nd hand clothing stores and stationers that can’t help but draw you in.

Modern Antwerp has a reputation for good living and a low-stress life, and so ideal for a relaxing city break. Its Flemish medieval architecture is breathtaking but it sits with a modernity that only a cool city can have; that sense of opposite. From old to new, fashionable to trendy, rock and rule to classical, whether talking about the food the buildings the music, art or fashion, the very energy this melting pot has to offer makes it a very special and COOl place to visit.

Individual, truly singular as eccentric as the best cities on the cool list. Its reputation for fashion, food and clubbing centre might well be relatively new, but scratch the surface and you’ll find a port city that has always pushed boundaries. Could this be the most continuous cool city in the world?  

The team at .Cent visited Antwerp with Visit Flanders. A Flemish government agency that is committed to the sustainable development and promotion of Flanders as a top tourist destination. The brand works to allow Flanders to flourish as an innovative, high-quality travel destination and to inspire potential visitors to explore.

They aim to utilise tourism to help Flanders flourish as a destination for both residents and visitors and pay special attention to sustainability, accessibility and family-friendliness. Find out more at www.visitflanders.com

If you enjoyed reading Antwerp, So Cool It’s Been Left Out in the Breeze then why not read Tram Your way here

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