Coty; Thrilling Perfume Master, Innovator and Creator of Joy
For those of us who love a bit of ‘pong’ ‘elixir’ ‘juice’ or just plain old scent then a little of the world of François Coty may be familiar, but if you have never heard of him, worry not. This most important figure in the world of perfumery created what many would consider the modern fragrance business as well as, styles of perfume still worn today. The company over one hundred years later, is still making enormous strides in scent innovation. The latest news in Fragrance, is of course, from the House of Coty and it’s all about longevity in perfumery. Meet the new 14 scents that have built-in long-lasting technology. Perfumes that are built to last longer on skin. This innovative brand is still climbing higher and higher scaling dizzy heights. Find out more in Coty; Thrilling Perfume Master, Innovator and Creator of Joy
François Marie Joseph Sportuno, who became known to the world of scent at François Coty was born on 3 May 1874 in Ajaccio, Corsica. He was a genius, hugely influential and successful in the world of perfumery. But he started in real poverty and grew through society ranks to the very heights of success, via an intriguing journey.
His mother, Marie Coti, died when he was only four years old; his father, Jean-Baptiste Sportuno, died three years later so he was brought up by his grandmother, in Marseille, France.
A brilliant pupil who was forced to abandon his studies because his family lacked the means to pay for them. He went on to work as a journalist locally and by building up good contacts and this is where he met Emmanuel Arène, a future senator who offered him a job in Paris as his secretary.
He arrived in a changing Paris in 1900, the turn of the century bringing newness with it; Cars, Planes, Electricity Photography and the Cinema, on top of that it was the year of the Paris Exposition, or World Fair as it was more commonly known where many technological innovations were displayed.
François visited the fair as did most Parisians and he was very impressed by the creative power of the crystal artist René Lalique, but more of that later.
At this particular time, the perfume industry was stuck in a stuffy old-fashioned world, yet to rise in glamour or with any products that were seen as exceptional. On top of this, the juices (mainly floral) were contained in old-fashioned bottles nothing seductive or magical to the eye or beautiful to display.
He also at this time met Raymond Goery, a pharmacist who made and sold perfume at his Paris shop. Coty began to learn about perfumery from Goery and created his first fragrance, Cologne Coty which was not a success he went on to learn further about perfumery at scent school in Grasse, about natural raw materials and synthetic products, as well as distillation and extraction of ingredients.
Now married, he set up his first laboratory in a corner of the apartment he lived in with his wife. He also changed his name in order to be seen by potential customers in Parisian society as more French, (his name sounded too Italian). He utilised his mother’s surname Coti turning it into Coty which he considered more elegant.
However, this did not mean it was all plain sailing for him to begin with. Established perfume companies did not want to work with him as he had no reputation as of yet.
There is a myth, that has built up about how he came to sell his first-ever perfume in stores. Coming out of yet another interview frustrated because they would not let him meet with the purchasing department of the Grands Magasins Du Louvre, he is supposed to have ‘accidentally’ dropped a bottle spilling the elixir all over the floor; the perfume? “La Rose Jacqueminot”;
This, of course, created a great interest in customers who immediately wanted to get hold of that attractive and unknown fragrance. This forced managers to reconsider their initial decision, so they bought only 12 bottles. And so began spectacular success for the perfumer, who became known as the founding father of the modern perfume industry.
The scent was a May rose absolute perfume with two synthetic components. At this point, most established perfumers would not try these relatively new synthetic ingredients but Coty championed them. The use of this science also allowed him to produce perfumes at a cheaper price point, expanding greatly who could afford fragrance.
Probably one of the first revolutionary things he did in 1909, was to relocate his manufacturing headquarters to Suresnes, just outside Paris, where he acquired property and began to build what would become “La cité des Parfums”.
This was a large complex of laboratories and factories that manufactured his products. “La cité” had 9,000 employees and was able to manufacture up to 100,000 bottles a day
Francois Cotyu by 1910 was exporting his perfumes from Paris, via Moscow, and New York as well as London and Buenos Aires. And so, by the end of World War I, his financial success made him one of the richest men in France, with Coty perfumes No. 1 in the world. All of this afforded him to act as patron of the arts, buy historic homes and seek to play a political role. In 1922, he gained control of the daily newspaper Le Figaro.
At the same time, Coty worked to change the scent industry including how to wear perfume, who could afford it and how it was bottled and supplied. He encouraged women to wear perfume directly on the skin, rather than put it on a lace handkerchief, or clothing as the traditional makers told wearers. Those who dabbed perfumes directly on the skin were seen as lower-ranked in society.
The National Union of French Perfumery did not approve, so much so they refused to admit him into its ranks, and he spent much of his working life being seen as an outsider facing hostility from within his own industry. It also didn’t hinder his entrepreneurial spirit.
He built truly fine fragrances and not long after the success of Rose Jacqueminot came L’Origan in 1905 with Sweet floral notes combined with spicy and powdery woody accords, its composition included new materials for that time such as coumarin, ionones (sweet powdery and woody Violet accord), and synthetic vanillin, and in the same year L’ Ambre Antique that bought a new facet to perfumery that became known then as Oriental but now are referred to as Amber scents. They are rich, spicy and powdery in feel. As there is no such smell to the amber stone the notes are a fusion of Vanilla, Patchouli, Labdanum, Styrax, Benzoin and a few more. It was the perfume l”Ambre Antique that saw Coty partner with René Lalique, the French jeweller, and glass designer known for his creations of glass art
“A fragrance must attract the eye as much as the nose”.
François Coty
Other scents followed L’Effleurt – 1908 Le Muguet (1910), Lilas Blanc (1910), Iris (1913), and Jasmin de Corse. But in 1917 he created, what may well be considered, his greatest scent achievement.
It brought the birth of a style of perfume and a way of building the layers called chypre. Not actually the first to name it this (after the island of Cypress) it was his innovation that led to the creation of a family of fragrances. ‘Chypre de Coty’ was built around a woody, mossy accord. Opening with a burst of citrus freshness (usually Bergamot) that dips into a floral heart of Rose, Ylang-Ylang or Jasmine. The base can be deep and dark with usually Woody earthy Patchouli, resin/incense-like Labdunum and earthy Oak Moss
Coty alongside the genius master perfumer Edmond Roudnitska established Chypre, as a fragrance family and defined its modern structure which has gone on to inpsire some of the greatest scents ever created.
Coty carried on producing perfumes and bought make-up into the portfolio that included cosmetics and skin care. By 1925, 36 million women worldwide used Coty face powders. His most popular product was his Air-spun face powder, launched in 1934.
But this was a man with fingers in many pies. Up until his death he also had been an elected senator of Corsica, ran several newspapers, and financially funded artists. He also helped with money towards early aeronautic endeavours and scientific undertakings. His sponsorship included the development of the electrical infrastructure for the city of Ajaccio, building affordable housing, and establishing a World War I monument.
He provided financial support to the French Olympic committee for the 1928 Summer Olympics and toward many other sporting ventures. Coty’s contributions additionally supported the establishment of a new research laboratory for physicist Édouard Branly (radio communications forerunner) within the Catholic Institute of Paris and he provided support for numerous artists as well as The French Academy in Rome.
Coty was an extraordinary businessman. From nowhere he built an empire in record time. At the time of his death, at age 60, his fortune was greatly diminished as he was a lady’s man and as a result of his divorce, the high cost of running his press empire and the repercussions of the economic crisis of 1929. But he will go down in history as the king of modern perfumery, who revolutionised the industry and how we wear perfume, even today.
So it’s only right that Coty, this brand with such a magnificent heritage should be in 2024 leaders again in the world of perfumery. One thing most of us wish from our fragrance is that it lasts a long time and has good silage (the trail of perfume you leave as you walk by). So via new technology, Coty has created just this.
In March 2024, they launched INFINIMENT COTY PARIS alongside collaborators, Sue Nabi and Nicolas Vu. It heralded a new era in perfumery, Coty’s exceptional heritage meets with a new future, this collection launched for the 120th anniversary of Coty
Created by Sue Nabi, Coty’s chief executive, and Nicolas Vu, with whom she previously founded the premium skincare brand Orveda, licensed to Coty,
The innovation created to give silage and longevity is called Aura Moléculaire. It is a fragrance diffusion technology based on a sugar-derived molecule that acts on the volatility and natural evaporation of ingredients. Think of it, in simple terms, like a tiny sticky molecule, that attaches itself to fragrance notes making them ‘heavier’ so they last longer.
This results in ingredients remaining far more perceptible, beyond their natural volatility. It has been suggested by Coty that Aura Moléculaire prolongs the radiance of top notes for up to 30 hours which is quiet remarkable.
On top of that it alters the ‘triangle effect’ of top and heart notes, which would dictate so much of how ingredients are used. This is as revolutionary as when Coty himself put out the first Chpyre perfume in his name or utilised the power of synthetics to change the perfume world forever.
Coty has explored Aura Moléculaire by bringing 14 new scents to the market, each modern yet with a nod to the brand and its innovative originator. The perfumes are broken into three stories. The three phases, echo times and feelings in a single day from the freshest moments in the am to the most intense fragrances for evenings.
The three stories, Dawn, Day and Dusk, pioneer a groundbreaking blend of natural and synthetic ingredients, utilising minimal formulation with fragrance, molecular aura, upcycled alcohol and purified water, and no additional ingredients. For maximum performance, the line uses molecular aura, patent-pending technology designed to extend the signature scent of each perfume for up to 30 hours.
There is an impressive collection of noses that worked under the guidance of Sue and Nicolas bringing their vision to life including
Alexis Varangot, Nathalie Lorson, Entre genres, Marie Salamgne, Santal a la vida, Dora Baghriche Un Parc de Roses en Alabama, Soleil d’Ikosim, Aristo Chypre, Or de moi, L’Amour Pourpre, Fabrice Pellegrin Noir Encens, Après l’Amour, Encore Une Fois Pierre Négrin Les Mots Doux, Alberto Morillas et Honorine Blanc J’ai trois amours Domitille Michalon Bertier, Atomes Crochus Alexandra Carlin Matin de Jade. An immense roster of the greatest noses working in perfumery today.
Each scent is also vegan, tested on sensitive skins and featured in minimalist bottles designed to be stacked. The Dawn collection is composed of fresh notes, bright citrus and flowers to offer “a touch of spontaneous and deliciousness”. The Day collection features a contemporary twist of emblematic perfumery archetypes embodying personal yet universal stories for the “quintessence of self-affirmation” and the Dusk collection is composed of intense notes, nocturnal and powerful flowers, sacred woods and warm ambery scents.
The I am Dawn Collection is made up of MATIN DE JADE : Morning blooming ginger flower, ATOMES CROCHUS : Honeysuckle, deceivingly innocent, LES MOTS DOUX : A constellation of white petals, and J’AI TROIS AMOURS : Delicious sparkles of laughter
MATIN DE JADE Morning blooming ginger flower
To gaze on Asia where day breaks. Imagine dawn’s fresh breeze carrying you skyward in a chrysalis of ginger and bergamot, of flowers diaphanous and white.
A new day unfolds.
Main notes: Ginger – Bergamot
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
ATOMES CROCHUS, Honeysuckle, deceivingly innocent
To meet again. At last. Alone together, no one else, just the two of us. And this perfume that seems to purr “I am kindred-spirit”.
A moment suspended in time, honeysuckle decked in impish innocence, a soupçon of smoked green tea. Verdant-gourmand floral
Main notes: Honeysuckle accord – Smoked green tea
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
LES MOTS DOUX, A constellation of white petals
If tenderness you crave, here it dwells.
All the world’s affection made perfume. A glance becomes gesture, instant, image. Soft words sprinkled in a whisper of floral whiteness. Dainty, delicate. A bouquet’s embrace in a whirlwind of petaled perfection. Close at last.
A powerfully tender declaration of love. Delicate floral
Main notes: Jasmine – Rose
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
J’AI TROIS AMOURS Delicious sparkles of laughter
A dance of elation whisked away by love at first sight. Head-over-heels, and the unquenchable desire to embrace the world in laughter unleashed. Notes of banana blossom, delectably chypre. Passion poised on the precipice of joy. Fruity floral
Main notes: Banana flower accord – Trio of Jasmines
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
The daytime raises her head and I am day bringing five scents with her, ENTRE GENRES : Cloud of musks, SOLEIL D’IKOSIM : The sun drenched in orange blossom, ARISTO CHYPRE : God save the Chypre
ENCORE UNE FOIS : Addictive vanilla elixir and NOIR ENCENS Incense rising reborn
ENTRE GENRES Cloud of musks Essence of cloud captured in a bottle. Airy meets Musk in a triptych of unbearable lightness. Fluffy effulgence in a caress of silk, its musky fullness flirting with addiction, with alchemies on the edge of the impalpable and innate… Musk overdose
Main notes: Trio of musks – Tangerine
Fragrance oil concentration: 20%
SOLEIL D’IKOSIM Sun-drenched in Orange blossom
Hold fast and dear Algiers the Joyous, the Glistening, the Dazzling. Mediterranean lights, the scents of childhood, a garden, orange blossoms. Watch as they come alive splashed in sunshine and dripping golden bliss. Roots to reach the stars. Gourmand floral
Main notes: Orange blossom – Neroli – Vetiver
Fragrance oil concentration : 18%
ARISTO CHYPRE Long live Le Chypre
Barely the time to slip away and they’re already the talk of the town. Presence, poise, perfume… Impossible to ignore. One senses the subtle notes of patchouli, noble and profound, touched to the point of sweet surrender to a most liquorish rose.
A sillage beckons to be captured or followed. Rich chypre
Main notes: Chypre accord – Rose
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
ENCORE UNE FOISAddictive Vanilla elixir
Encore and encore… A thousand times encore! An overdose of never stop ‘til you get enough. An addiction to skin, its essence, the desire to devour this ambery vanilla. An elixir-in-the-rough swoons with carnal proclivities. A concentration of voluptuousness overwhelms me. Eternal beginnings, here we go again. Addictive ambery
Main notes: Duo of Vanillas
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
NOIR ENCENS Incense rising reborn
A blank page to expunge the past. To reinvent, revel in rebirth, exalt the sum of self. Like the phoenix, in the image of incense burning, rising unstoppable from the ashes. Its energy is harnessed in a perfume made bold and intense by Black Pepper and Incense. Avant-garde woody
Main notes: Incense – Black Pepper
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
And finally, the evening from I am Dusk that brings OR DE MOI : Tuberose Flower Power, SANTAL A LA VIDA : Creamy Dreamy Sandalwood, UN PARC DE ROSES EN, ALABAMA : Proud Leather Rose, L’AMOUR POURPRE : Nightfall under the spell of lavender and APRÈS L’AMOUR : Ambery haze of pleasure
OR DE MOI Tuberose Flower Power
Potent, unapologetic radiance. More than a flower here is the epitome of exceptional, charisma shining forth in a flawless accord of floral-chypre, balmy and full-bodied. In rich and in gold we glow.
Main notes: Tuberose – Chypre accord
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
SANTAL A LA VIDA Creamy Dreamy Sandalwood
That’s the magic of sandalwood, perfume’s new vanguard of vibe, popping with the heavenly spice of trendy and nice. Warm, vibrant goodness becoming one with soul.
Main notes: Duo of sandalwoods – Jasmine
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
UN PARC DE ROSES EN ALABAMA Proud Leather Rose
One rose rising. Rejecting surrender. A tour de fierce in action. Others follow of the same rosy ilk, sprinkled with myrrh and leather. Perfume as an ode to all who name the sky their own.
Main notes: Rose – Leather accord
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
L’AMOUR POURPRE Nightfall under the spell of Lavender
At dusk, brush your hand against lavender sprigs as you wander. You feel the heartbeat of the earth itself encouraging seduction with its scent. Lavender’s delicacy meets ambery majesty, each note carrying the boiling desire to seduce and attract.
A scent that whispers love at nightfall. Olfactory family : Refined ambery
Main notes: Lavender – Vanilla
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
APRÈS L’AMOUR An Ambery haze of pleasure
After the loving comes more love. Again and again, over the moon. A yearning, burning pleasure. A cascade of emotions that consume and leave you breathless. Sensations encapsulated in rockrose, ginger and a virgin tobacco accord, the urge to engrave my odour on your skin. A brume of ambery allure envelops you, spicy, indulgent, heady. Aphrodisiac ambery
Main notes: Tobacco Accord – Cistus Labdanum
Fragrance oil concentration : 20%
Endlessly refillable, the bottle is designed to be kept, never thrown away. A hymn to minimalism, conceived and designed by Nicolas. Extremely complex to create, with a perfectly flat asymmetrical face on one side and bold facets on the other, it captures the spirit of the entire collection. At the end of their life, the bottles can be stacked and assembled to create works of art, in line with an Artcycling concept for which a patent application has also been filed.
To mark the launch of its perfume brand, Coty has teamed up with 1-54, the annual African contemporary art fair, to give its bottles a new ‘artistic’ life and support artists from the African scene.
Sue Nabi and Nicolas Vu are committed to shedding light on artists who share their values. As Nicolas Vu aptly puts it, “Art gives soul to luxury.” In collaboration with the African Contemporary Art Fair 1-54, they invited artists to freely interpret each fragrance.
Works by Isabelle.D, Evans Mbugua, Deborah Segun, Francisco Vidal, Younes Khourassani, Ousmane Niang, Saïdou Dicko, Thandiwe Muriu, Mous Lamrabat, Emo de Meideros, and Willys Kezi Niangi were brought together for the first time that evening. Each piece a unique interpretation of the fragrances in the collection: Matin de Jade, Atomes Crochus, Soleil D’Ikosim, Aristo Chypre, Encore une Fois, Or de Moi, Un Parc de Roses en Alabama, Noir Encens, Entre Genres, Les Mots Doux, and J’ai Trois Amours. The soirée was enlivened by performances from Lucky Love and John Glacier.
£195/75ml from Liberty London
The INFINIMENT COTY PARIS collection is available online at www.infinimentcoty.com
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