“High & Low”: Rise, Fall, and Reflections of John Galliano
When we look at masterpieces on a fashion catwalk show, we often wonder about the person behind them. Is their personality as beautiful as the garments they create? The fashion industry is a world of boundless imagination and breathtaking beauty, but it is also a place of enormous pressure, where the line between genius and controversy can blur. At the centre of this realm is John Galliano, a designer whose work reinvented Haute Couture by pushing the frontiers of imagination and skill. Sadly, his story is a stark reminder of how easily personal failings can overshadow greatness. To scale the heights of greatness and yet to fall back down with a bump. Find out more in “High & Low”: The Rise, Fall, and Reflections of John Galliano.
John Galliano’s journey through the fashion world began to shimmer in the early 1980s, right after he graduated from the world-renowned, Central Saint Martins in London. He quickly made a name for himself with his innovative shows in London, where he captivated audiences by weaving stories through his designs. This talent soon brought him into the spotlight, earning him the title Designer of the Year in 1987 from the British Fashion Council.
Showing initially in London and then Paris Galliano has several backers from 1988 to 1993. But not every year was smooth sailing. In 1993, Galliano hit a bump when his financial backing from Amor ended and he missed a crucial season. This could have been a setback, but fate had other plans.
Anna Wintour of American Vogue and André Leon Talley of Vanity Fair stepped in, introducing Galliano to influential figures like São Schlumberger and financial backers John Bult and Mark Rice. This support was crucial, helping Galliano to rebound and further cement his status in the fashion world.
Galliano’s resilience and unique vision were once again recognized in 1994, reaffirming his status as a leading force in fashion by winning the British Fashion Council’s Designer of the Year for the second time. His influence and creativity continued to soar, and in 1995, he was awarded British Designer of the Year yet again, marking the third time he received this honour and the second year in a row.
One of the highlights of his successful career was taking the helm at Givenchy, breaking new ground as the first British designer to lead a French haute couture house. Here, Galliano presented his first couture show in 1996, which featured an enchanting mix of sumptuous bouffant ball gowns, dresses with elegant bows, and sharply belted suits. This collection solidified Galliano’s reputation as, not just a designer, but a storyteller, redefining what fashion could convey.
During his time at Givenchy, Galliano was celebrated for his creative designs and the dramatic flair he brought to every show. His tenure there was marked by inventive designs and a theatrical approach to presentations that breathed new life into the storied brand.
Yet, it was at Dior where Galliano’s creative spirit truly found its wings. he was asked to leave Givenchy and join the bigger House of Dior as head. He rejuvenated the brand with his lavish, narrative-rich collections that wove together historical detail and boundless fantasy, his work at Dior setting new benchmarks for what fashion could achieve.
With all this beauty he created, can we ever believe that he harbours an inner ugliness? It’s a stark contrast, Galliano’s exquisite creations versus the harshness of his words. In 2011, the fashion world was rocked when Galliano was let go from Dior after he was caught making anti-Semitic remarks in a Paris café.
What made this even more troubling was the fact that this was not just a one-off mistake; it was just one of at least three times where Galliano voiced such harmful views, though the only one caught on tape. It hinted that these were not just slips, but rather, they reflected what he truly thought. This raised serious questions about who Galliano really was beneath the designer label.
This shocking moment marked more than just the end of Galliano’s reign at one of the world’s top fashion houses; it ignited a global debate over the line between creative freedom and the responsibility we hold as public figures. Fans and critics alike were left torn, struggling to square their admiration for Galliano’s undeniable talent with their disappointment and anger over his hurtful actions.
Kevin Macdonald’s documentary, “High & Low: John Galliano,” dives headfirst into this complex story. The film takes an honest look at Galliano’s spectacular rise and the self-destructive spiral that followed, without turning a blind eye to the fashion industry’s darker sides or Galliano’s own battles with addiction.
Despite revealing Galliano’s innovative catwalk shows, where models breathed life into his imaginative stories, and despite delving into his challenging upbringing and battles with identity, the documentary leaves viewers questioning Galliano’s sincerity. Was his apology genuine, or was it merely regret over losing his prestigious position?
The film stirs up scepticism, pushing us to think critically about Galliano’s actions. Can we, and should we, separate Galliano’s stunning designs from his unsettling personal views? Should a designer’s moral character influence our perception of their work?
This question has been raised much more recently in the world of art, where questionable, if not downright ugly and wrong behaviour, is ‘washed away’ with critics saying we should look at the work, not the creator. But should we? Is the creation part of the creator?
As “High & Low” traces Galliano’s attempts to rebuild his life and career after the scandal, it paints a broader picture of the fashion industry’s rhythm of falls and comebacks, touching on themes of change and resilience.
John Galliano’s story, as told through this insightful documentary, reminds us that behind the fashion industry’s sparkle are very real, very human stories. It calls us to reflect on the delicate balance between artistic genius and ethical behaviour, encouraging a deeper understanding of the complexities within us all. From a major fall from grace, and disgusting behaviour to rebuilding his creative world, one thing is for sure, Galliano is a survivor.
High & Low: John Galliano has been released in cinemas across the UK since Friday 08th March 2024 See the trailer here
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