The Daniel w. Fletcher’s spring\/summer 2023 collection opens London Fashion Week at The Londoner Hotel with an all-black morning suit rendered in British wool and worn with a singular armband in a solemn tribute to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The show is a homage to the figures past and present that have made London their home and a place of global intrigue and impact. King\u2019s Road punks, the late-night characters of Soho, Savile Row tailors, those in the home stand from Finsbury Park to Stamford Bridge, and the suited gents of The City. Their Majesties across the decades in their inner-city palaces. This influence comes not from a singular time frame or generation, but an amalgamation of a city that continues to weave a narrative that is felt and observed the world over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n .\u00a9Chris Yates\/ Chris Yates Media<\/p>\n\n\n\n Temperley<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Sometimes a woman dresses to meet the requirements of an occasion. Other times, she reaches for her most dazzling pieces to live up to her own mood. For Temperley London\u2019s Spring \u201823 collection, that mood is one of celebration \u2013 of anything-goes spontaneity and maximalist display in all manner of jewel-like settings. Revelry sets the tone for a range animated by the romance of antiquity and bygone eras.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Suzani embroideries, mirrorball sequins, romantic lace and sharp tailoring all have roles to play. The colour palette reflects the unrestrained but elegant mood, with powerful reds, elegant monochromes and energising contrasts and clashes in the prints and knits. The key print, layering dramatically oversized tulips over a world map, further nods to travel in ancient times.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A meeting point between East and West, the original melting pot for new ideas and innovations. Research into Central Asian decorative techniques gave rise to the Suzani story: a set of dresses deploying a form of embroidery steeped in tradition and symbolism. Historically, Suzani pieces were embroidered by women and handed down from mother to daughter, design features include linear sequins traced around the edges with bugle beads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bora Aksu<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n For SS23 Bora Aksu presents an anachronistic dreamscape, a collection inspired by the work of the enigmatic artist and writer Henry Darger as well as the fanciful imaginings of Marcel Dzama. SS23 explores the relationship between innocence and perversion, delivering pieces that toe the line between the delicate and the resolute. Aksu takes Darger\u2019s \u2018In the Realms of the Unreal\u2019 as the foundation for this season, delivering his signature playful style and exquisite tailoring in juxtaposition with an altogether darker outlook.<\/p>\n\n\n\n SS23 sees the figures of the \u2018Vivian Girls\u2019 from Darger take centre stage as heroines in a world of violence. The central role of innocence and childhood carries through from Darger\u2019s work into the collection itself, allowing Aksu to further explore the ideas of escapism and folkloric storytelling introduced in previous seasons. The work of Marcel Dzama plays an equally important role this season, particularly in the colour palette, taken directly from the mature joy expressed in his work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The introduction of 1930s-style military jackets, trench coats and shirting presents a blend of Aksu\u2019s signature tailoring style with a harsher, more masculine aesthetic. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Visually, the motifs of bats, polka dots, horns and military millinery adorn pieces throughout the collection. Each of these is taken from the work of Darger and Dzama, each symbolises an aspect of female maturity. From the nameless joys of childhood through to the traumas of adolescence and the masculine influences of adulthood. Also, see natural tones of navy are taken from Dzama\u2019s illustrations while Darger\u2019s story of childhood loss is represented through the buttercreams and soft pink shades.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This softness is carried through the collection through both colour and detail; silk satins and taffetas adorn ethereal dresses and sharp suits alike. , reminding us that through all of Aksu\u2019s collections the joy of expression lies at the heart of his creative process. Bora Aksu continue his search for unloved and unused fabrics, finding rolls of rejected limited quantity designs and damaged materials. Each of these fabrics has been lovingly incorporated through the collection, resulting in the demi-couture style that is the brand\u2019s signature. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Mark Fast<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Catwalk Photographer – Stefan Knauer<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The vigour of a new season takes inspiration from the moody party people who inspired last season\u2019s collection, Fast\u2019s typical neon motifs travel through the decades to penetrate the zeal of the 80s fitness scenes. Desires of comfort within personal bodily physique merge with desires for bodily physicality, presenting a range centring on acceptance of one\u2019s own self and embracement of everybody. Steering stereotypical associations of 80s aerobics classes and morphing them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Laces and strings are pulled taught, ever-evolving signature bodycon is on show and glimpses the latest shoe technology devised by Fast. Beneath the colourful graffiti prints, under the knitted hoods and behind the Mark Fast monograms are the personas of the club. Fast\u2019s customised trainers-into-heels embody the hard- worker of the daytime who turns into the bon-viveur of the nighttime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Flirty stone-washed denim skirts, paired with ruched elasticated-denim pieces while sportswear-chic items accentuate the physicality and power of the wearer themselves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Toga<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n Eiko Yamazawa was a female photographer who studied in the U.S during 1920s. Best known for her photographs that resemble abstract paintings, she continued to create for over half a century paving the way for other female photographers in Japan.![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Daniel-w.-Fletcher-SS23-Runway-Image-Photography-By-Chris-Yates-1.jpg?ssl=1\")
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Yamazawa’s series What I Am Doing [watashi no gendai (“my contemporary moment”) in the original Japanese title]
portrays subjects that she found interesting in her daily life, through black and white, color, and abstract images,to create a strong impression of the \u201ccontemporary”. Inspired by her dedication to making experimental works and communicating with artists overseas, I wanted to create a collection where our visions of the contemporary would overlap. The collection is presented in video format with an original composition by contemporary composer Eiko Ishibashi. Three women, working in different genres and across time have come together to create a contemporary moment.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n
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