{"id":11823,"date":"2014-04-18T16:43:44","date_gmt":"2014-04-18T15:43:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=11823"},"modified":"2014-04-19T13:22:49","modified_gmt":"2014-04-19T12:22:49","slug":"sharp-sharpening-the-bra-cone","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=11823","title":{"rendered":"Sharp: Sharpening the Bra Cone"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/4.1.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-11892\" alt=\"4.1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/4.1-1024x343.jpg?resize=580%2C194\" width=\"580\" height=\"194\" \/><\/a> A self taught clothes designer, a self proclaimed humanist and unarguably a fashion institution; \u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.jeanpaulgaultier.com\">Jean Paul Gaultier<\/a> has been a true innovator in fashion and has broken stereotypes throughout his 40 year career. <a href=\"http:\/\/www.barbican.org.uk\/artgallery\/event-detail.asp?ID=14772\">The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk <\/a>is an impressive retrospective and highlights a truly inspirational body of work, however what I feel sets this show apart<span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">\u00a0is the\u00a0<\/span>unequivocal<span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">\u00a0 feeling of Jean Paul Gaultier&#8217;s presence within the show. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">It&#8217;s more than just his clothes (which are breathtaking) it&#8217;s his vision, his personality and his perspective on fashion and beauty. \u00a0The show has been curated more as an installation than a retrospective and\u00a0<\/span>collections are not displayed chronologically giving you a unified perspective of a vision not just a series of fashion seasons.<\/p>\n<p>The collections span his whole career to date with everything from \u00a0the sublime gender swapping outfits, the first male skirt on the catwalk, the punk tartan suits and specially designed mowhawk&#8217;s and the couturier pieces \u00a0individually \u00a0labelled \u00a0to show the hours spent on each outfit to the endearingly ridiculous aspects such as his spitting image doll from the 80&#8217;s show. \u00a0As entertaining and thought provoking as his collections have been they are also highly skilled and \u00a0it is breathtaking to observe in such close proximity the intricacy of the \u00a0couture and demi couture pieces. <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-11889\" alt=\"55\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55-1024x341.jpg?resize=580%2C193\" width=\"580\" height=\"193\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg?resize=1024%2C341&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg?resize=300%2C100&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg?resize=600%2C200&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg?resize=680%2C226&amp;ssl=1 680w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg?resize=770%2C256&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg?w=1500&amp;ssl=1 1500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/55.jpg?w=1160&amp;ssl=1 1160w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a> The mannequins deserve a special mention and are a spectacle in themselves with \u00a0faces projected upon them to create a lifelike quality. \u00a0They are truly captivating when you walk in and were imagined by Gaultier as he joked that &#8216;museums were for dead people&#8217;, \u00a0he did not want to have a serious exhibition with minimalistic neoclassical style mannequins, instead he envisioned a show that really celebrated not only his work but the people that have inspired him.<\/p>\n<p>I was reminded that Jean Paul Gaultier has had a colourful and diverse career outside of his own fashion house too, from creative director at <a href=\"http:\/\/uk.hermes.com\/?xtor=SEC-1001\">Herm\u00e9s<\/a> to hosting his own TV show; if you are old enough you will no doubt remember <a href=\"http:\/\/www.channel4.com\/programmes\/eurotrash\">Eurotrash <\/a>with its brightly coloured studio hosting whimsical, tongue in check and sometimes outrageous content. He was even immortalised\u00a0with his own Spitting Image puppet.<\/p>\n<p>If all this was not enough, JPG has designed and collaborated on many \u00a0film costumes, the most well known is \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.imdb.com\/name\/nm0000108\/\">Luc Besson&#8217;s <\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/www.imdb.com\/title\/tt0119116\/\">The\u00a0Fifth Element<\/a>\u00a0which is one of my favourite films. If I could have been any character in a film it would have been Leeloo although I could only dream of pulling off the bandage\/ orange brace combo. You may be surprised to know he has collaborated on many visually beautiful films with <a href=\"http:\/\/www.imdb.com\/name\/nm0000264\/\">Pedro\u00a0Almod\u00f3var<\/a> on <a href=\"http:\/\/www.imdb.com\/title\/tt0107315\/\">Kika<\/a>, La Mala Educaci\u00f3n (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.imdb.com\/title\/tt0275491\/\">Bad Education<\/a>)\u00a0 and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=EolQSTTTpI4\">The Skin I Live in<\/a>\u00a0and he created the avant garde costumes in <a href=\"http:\/\/www.imdb.com\/name\/nm0000425\/\">Peter Greenaway&#8217;s<\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/www.imdb.com\/name\/nm0000425\/\">The Cook, The Thief, His Wife and Her Lover<\/a>. This is a true testament to his understanding of clothes and the powerful statement they make in that his costumes often translate a character to the audience before the have spoken a single scripted word. <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-11891\" alt=\"22\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22-1024x343.jpg?resize=580%2C194\" width=\"580\" height=\"194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg?resize=1024%2C343&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg?resize=300%2C100&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg?resize=600%2C201&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg?resize=680%2C227&amp;ssl=1 680w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg?resize=770%2C257&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg?w=1500&amp;ssl=1 1500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/22.jpg?w=1160&amp;ssl=1 1160w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a> Putting aside my own sense of underachievement after an hour spent marvelling one persons career, this show truly evokes an emotion when you visit, JPG is everywhere in it and his sentiment that everyone is beautiful and that fashion is fun is palpable. \u00a0It is a testament to a show when it is curated in a way \u00a0that can leave you feeling you have stepped inside an artists mind and felt their values and to an extent their vision.<\/p>\n<p>At the beginning of the exhibition a JPG mannequin welcomes you in English and in French and he tells you that he is not an artist but a person who loves clothes \u2026 but I disagree, I think he is a true artist.\u00a0I&#8217;ll leave you with quote from Boy George on his work as I feel it gives a true example of how his designs affect people<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;I was not a drag queen. I was in a blurry area that people couldn&#8217;t figure out ;they couldn&#8217;t categorise me, put me in a box. People had a misconception of what homosexuality really was; they didn&#8217;t realise that not all homosexuals could be defined by the usual stereotypes. If a gay man did not exactly fit into what people thought of as the gay scene, he was an outsider in a world of outsiders. In the 1980s and 1990s, many new types of sexuality were begin explored and the definitions were changing. In this respect, Gaultier&#8217;s use \u00a0of feminine elements in mens clothing and making it look &#8216;normal&#8217; were truly groundbreaking.&#8221; B<em>oy George<\/em> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-11888\" alt=\"11\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11-1024x331.jpg?resize=580%2C187\" width=\"580\" height=\"187\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11.jpg?resize=1024%2C331&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11.jpg?resize=300%2C97&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11.jpg?resize=600%2C194&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11.jpg?resize=680%2C219&amp;ssl=1 680w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11.jpg?resize=770%2C248&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/11.jpg?w=1200&amp;ssl=1 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a> <em>The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk\u00a0<\/em>is organized by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, in collaboration with Maison Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris. The exhibition is curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot of the MMFA. \u00a0The show is held at the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.barbican.org.uk\/artgallery\/event-detail.asp?ID=14772\">Barbican<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A self taught clothes designer, a self proclaimed humanist and unarguably a fashion institution; \u00a0Jean Paul Gaultier has been a&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":11892,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5],"tags":[1606,425,4928,4974,436,387,31,88,352,376,2734,1932],"features_issues":[],"featured_themes":[],"ppma_author":[16671],"class_list":["post-11823","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-barbican","tag-catwalk","tag-couture","tag-couturier","tag-designer","tag-exhibition","tag-fashion-2","tag-jean-paul-gaultier","tag-london","tag-paris","tag-punk","tag-style"],"yoast_head":"<!-- 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