{"id":13585,"date":"2014-07-03T10:33:37","date_gmt":"2014-07-03T09:33:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=13585"},"modified":"2014-07-07T10:32:37","modified_gmt":"2014-07-07T09:32:37","slug":"mirror-student-designer-reviews-paris","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=13585","title":{"rendered":"Mirror: Student Designer reviews: Paris"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Here, dear fashion friends, are the last reviews of the Men&#8217;s Fashion Week SS15 from Paris.\u00a0Thank you to the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arts.ac.uk\/fashion\/\" target=\"_blank\">LCF<\/a> students for sharing your opinion and inspiration.<\/p>\n<p>LUKE BULLEN &#8211; Walter Van Beirendonck<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13586\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13586\" style=\"width: 397px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.20.11.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13586\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.20.11.png?resize=397%2C604\" alt=\"Photography: Lea Colombo\" width=\"397\" height=\"604\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.20.11.png?w=397&amp;ssl=1 397w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.20.11.png?resize=197%2C300&amp;ssl=1 197w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.20.11.png?resize=300%2C456&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 397px) 100vw, 397px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13586\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photography: Lea Colombo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13587\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13587\" style=\"width: 426px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.22.19.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13587\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.22.19.png?resize=426%2C603\" alt=\"Photography: Lea Colombo\" width=\"426\" height=\"603\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.22.19.png?w=426&amp;ssl=1 426w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.22.19.png?resize=211%2C300&amp;ssl=1 211w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.22.19.png?resize=300%2C424&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13587\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photography: Lea Colombo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>This collection stood out because it was fun vibrant and on top of that, very beautiful. The whole collection was a literal collage of beautiful patterns, fun prints, bold colours and contrasting fabrics from mesh and fringe &#8211; seamlessly growing out of nicely tailored suits. The collection is influential to me as designer because it is a perfect example of everything just fitting together; it is fun, interesting to look at and immediately catches one&#8217;s eye. You can easily see this collection being designed as a 2D collage with the different patterns, colours, textures and shapes &#8211; it completely works in 3D. This collection also seems to have some Asian influences with the chosen silhouettes and the Karate belts, I like how unexpected and successful all these different elements are thrown together without looking forced or clich\u00e9d.<\/p>\n<p>MARCO STORM BRASKOV &#8211; Yohji Yamamoto<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13588\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13588\" style=\"width: 462px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.23.31.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13588\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.23.31.png?resize=462%2C591\" alt=\"Photography: Marie-Am\u00e9lie Tondu\" width=\"462\" height=\"591\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.23.31.png?w=462&amp;ssl=1 462w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.23.31.png?resize=234%2C300&amp;ssl=1 234w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.23.31.png?resize=300%2C383&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 462px) 100vw, 462px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13588\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photography: Marie-Am\u00e9lie Tondu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13589\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13589\" style=\"width: 400px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.25.51.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13589\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.25.51.png?resize=400%2C595\" alt=\"Photography: Marie-Am\u00e9lie Tondu\" width=\"400\" height=\"595\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.25.51.png?w=400&amp;ssl=1 400w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.25.51.png?resize=201%2C300&amp;ssl=1 201w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.25.51.png?resize=300%2C446&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13589\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photography: Marie-Am\u00e9lie Tondu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Yohji Yamamoto\u2019s SS15 collection reflects his masterful approach to deconstruction, tailoring, textures and prints. I admire how he tells a story through his show and creates interesting characters. In the show you were met with a romantic version of a hobo, an outlaw and an artistic spirit. I have always been very inspired by his silhouettes and his way of layering the garments to complement and enhance the look. It gives a ragged but floating and effortless expression. His collection had an interesting mix of styles, which went from fitted pinstripe suits with contrasting patchwork to deconstructed baroque jackets &#8211; printed with faded glass rosettes. Towards the end of the show he introduced my favourite looks, they were in full denim, with a clear Americana vibe combined with Japanese workwear. The denim pieces became hybrids between shirts and kimonos mixed with ponchos and cropped fishermen pants. I think it is inspirational how he draws you into his quirky universe and imagination.<\/p>\n<p>LAURA NEEDLE &#8211; Acne<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13591\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13591\" style=\"width: 395px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.29.24.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13591\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.29.24.png?resize=395%2C601\" alt=\"Image taken from: http:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/18107\/4\/acne-ss15\" width=\"395\" height=\"601\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.29.24.png?w=395&amp;ssl=1 395w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.29.24.png?resize=197%2C300&amp;ssl=1 197w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.29.24.png?resize=300%2C456&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 395px) 100vw, 395px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13591\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Image taken from: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/18107\/4\/acne-ss15\" target=\"_blank\">http:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/18107\/4\/acne-ss15<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13592\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13592\" style=\"width: 400px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.30.36.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13592\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.30.36.png?resize=400%2C604\" alt=\"http:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/18107\/4\/acne-ss15\" width=\"400\" height=\"604\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.30.36.png?w=400&amp;ssl=1 400w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.30.36.png?resize=198%2C300&amp;ssl=1 198w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.30.36.png?resize=300%2C453&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13592\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/18107\/4\/acne-ss15\" target=\"_blank\">http:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/gallery\/18107\/4\/acne-ss15<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Confident colour with a mix of juxtaposed fabrics form this relaxed collection from Acne Menswear S\/S 15. Casual elements run throughout the collection with tied shirts around the waist and a balance of oversized garments meeting either slim fit shorts or trouser. The clean boxy and minimal shapes are formed through the luxurious fabrics that are then paired with a casual everyday chunky knit or jersey and then styled with a trainer or beanie hat. Although this collection creates a casual vibe, all garments have a desirable tailored and clean finish. Varied finishes feature throughout my own graduate collection, whether it is a classical and refined or a raw yet considered edge. The causal mix in my collection of slip dresses, oversized pyjama trousers with a more tailored outwear garment reminded me of Acne\u2019s approach to SS\/ 15.<\/p>\n<p>NICOLE PASKAUSKAS &#8211; Kenzo<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13601\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13601\" style=\"width: 644px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-13601\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?resize=580%2C385\" alt=\"Photography: Lea Colombo\" width=\"580\" height=\"385\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?w=891&amp;ssl=1 891w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?resize=300%2C199&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?resize=768%2C510&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?resize=400%2C266&amp;ssl=1 400w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?resize=600%2C398&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?resize=680%2C451&amp;ssl=1 680w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-03-at-10.55.37.png?resize=770%2C511&amp;ssl=1 770w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13601\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photography: Lea Colombo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The Kenzo collection is my favourite show from Paris, their consistently strong and bold use of shapes and prints and selective use of colour are influential to me as a designer as they always reinvent their image with each collection but always also manage to follow their consistent &#8216;Kenzo style&#8217; as a recognisable brand.<\/p>\n<p>CHARLOTTE KNOWLES &#8211; Anne Demeulemeester<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13745\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13745\" style=\"width: 271px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.27.42.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13745\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.27.42.png?resize=271%2C409\" alt=\"Image: nowfashion.com\" width=\"271\" height=\"409\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.27.42.png?w=271&amp;ssl=1 271w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.27.42.png?resize=198%2C300&amp;ssl=1 198w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 271px) 100vw, 271px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13745\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Image: nowfashion.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_13746\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-13746\" style=\"width: 252px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.28.16.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13746 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.28.16.png?resize=252%2C407\" alt=\"Screen shot 2014-07-07 at 10.28.16\" width=\"252\" height=\"407\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.28.16.png?w=252&amp;ssl=1 252w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Screen-shot-2014-07-07-at-10.28.16.png?resize=185%2C300&amp;ssl=1 185w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 252px) 100vw, 252px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-13746\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Image: nowfashion.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>S\u00e9bastien Meunier, staying true to the Demeulemeester aesthetic, demonstrated a monochrome-esque, polished collection. Layers of crisp, lightly frayed cotton edges; raw and unlined, created a beautiful, unfussy delicacy. The silhouettes were loose and lean; cropped, rumpled trousers with long variations of tops and outerwear. His subtle incorporation of embellishment amongst the nonchalant, simplistic aesthetic illustrated a sensitivity and ability to stay loyal to the brands aesthetic, whilst adding his own injection of style. Use and exploration of texture is what inspires me; I admire his sensitivity and subtle application throughout the collection. I also applaud his clever use (or lack) of colour. Despite the absence, his choice and application are very effective and highlighted by the majoritively monochrome &#8216;palette&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Read <a href=\"http:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/cover-student-designers-about-who-they-covered\/13283\" target=\"_blank\">here <\/a>more about the young designers and their reviews from <a href=\"http:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/cover-student-designers-about-who-they-covered\/13283\" target=\"_blank\">London<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/cover-student-designer-reviews-milan\/13355\" target=\"_blank\">Milan<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Here, dear fashion friends, are the last reviews of the Men&#8217;s Fashion Week SS15 from Paris.\u00a0Thank you to the LCF&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":53,"featured_media":13601,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[11,5],"tags":[3002,5623,4320,5564,5622,5467,5625,5624],"features_issues":[],"featured_themes":[],"ppma_author":[16675],"class_list":["post-13585","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-art","category-fashion","tag-acne","tag-lcf-london","tag-london-college-of-fashion","tag-mens-fashion-week","tag-springsummer-15","tag-ss15","tag-walter-van-beirendonck","tag-yohji-yamamoto"],"yoast_head":"<!-- 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