{"id":136484,"date":"2023-07-25T14:17:12","date_gmt":"2023-07-25T13:17:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=136484"},"modified":"2023-07-26T08:14:17","modified_gmt":"2023-07-26T07:14:17","slug":"the-art-of-craft","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=136484","title":{"rendered":"The Art of Craft"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">On the edge of the mainland of south Essex find Canvey Island, separated from the mainland by a network of creeks. Lying only just above sea level, it has been inhabited since&nbsp;Roman times.  It had a glorious moment and became the fastest-growing seaside resort in Britain between 1911 and 1951 and also held iconic buildings such as the seafront Labworth Caf\u00e9 which was designed in 1933 by Ove Arup, the famous design engineer who worked on projects such as the Sydney Opera House and the Gorilla House at London Zoo. A mere 37 miles away is central London&#8217;s South Molton Street which in the early 1970s was a hub for directional fashion thanks to a pioneering shop called Browns. The first London boutique to stock the likes of stock Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. So what is the connection between them both?  The Art of Craft is what it is, find out more Here<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">If you don&#8217;t already know of him, Simon Burstein had a hugely successful career building the fashion emporium (his parent&#8217;s store)  Browns (1970-1982 and 2008-2015) into a globally recognised hub, and in between headed the French fashion brand Sonia Rykiel in Paris (1985-2007). So what on earth does that have to do with an Island off of Essex?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou2.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"580\" height=\"580\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou2.jpg?resize=580%2C580&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-136502\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou2.jpg?w=800&amp;ssl=1 800w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou2.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou2.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou2.jpg?resize=768%2C768&amp;ssl=1 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Well, the story picks up in June 2023 with Simon moving into the world of bookbinding. He announced the launch of Charfleet Bookbindery on Canvey Island as well as adding in the contemporary menswear and heritage brand, Leathersmith of London, which has been making diaries and journals since 1839.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/St-Paul_range.jpeg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"580\" height=\"438\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/St-Paul_range.jpeg?resize=580%2C438&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-136501\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/St-Paul_range.jpeg?w=1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/St-Paul_range.jpeg?resize=300%2C226&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/St-Paul_range.jpeg?resize=768%2C580&amp;ssl=1 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">TJ &amp; J Smith was founded in 1839 as a London partnership to manufacture a range of fine diaries, almanacs, quill pens and special metallic paper. One of the company&#8217;s original brands was Leathersmith of London. The business was acquired in 1987 by H. Neale &amp; Co Ltd who had a thriving book bindery on the Charfleet Estate in Canvey Island built after the Second World War<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Talking of the Island, founded in 1919, Charflet is still an established UK company with a long, rich history of handmade bookbinding, producing high-quality bespoke diaries, journals, luxury stationery, business gifts and leatherbound goods based on this unique stretch of land.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\"><strong><em>\u201cWhen I sold Browns in 2015 to Farfetch, I had no idea I would end up owning a bindery business, but a series of serendipitous events combined with an unrealised love of artisanal bookmaking has led to where we are today, opening a brand-new state-of-the-art bindery facility on Canvey Island, saving a number of uniquely skilled roles, and relaunching a 184-year-old British Brand.\u201d<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Simon Burstein<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Interestingly the history of bookbinding began it is thought with educated monks as early as the sixth century, who would protect their hand-transcribed manuscripts with wooden boards encrusted with metal and jewels. Not so unlike a couture gown with intricate stitching and decoration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">The stitching used to bind books changed, of course, with the advent of the modern printing press and book covers became what we now consider paper or card covers often with machine print designs alongside glue replacing the stitching of books. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">The craft behind designer fashion and bookbinding holds some of the same levels of skill, knowledge and artisanal crafts so the &#8216;jump&#8217; across is not so diverse after all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.22.png?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"552\" height=\"322\" data-id=\"136514\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.22.png?resize=552%2C322&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-136514\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.22.png?w=552&amp;ssl=1 552w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.22.png?resize=300%2C175&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 552px) 100vw, 552px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.15.png?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"546\" height=\"316\" data-id=\"136515\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.15.png?resize=546%2C316&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-136515\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.15.png?w=546&amp;ssl=1 546w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Screenshot-2023-07-25-at-12.35.15.png?resize=300%2C174&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 546px) 100vw, 546px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">When H.Neale went into administration in 2015, Burstein stepped in to acquire it, retaining the skilled artisan workforce (most of whom have two decades of experience) and moving them into new state-of-the-art premises on Canvey Island, to be officially opened by HRH The Duchess of Edinburgh on 27<sup>th<\/sup> June 2023.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou3.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"580\" height=\"773\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou3.jpg?resize=580%2C773&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-136506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou3.jpg?w=682&amp;ssl=1 682w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Charfleet-Book-Bindery_2023_Ph_Imane-Bouhlou3.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">The artisanal workforce is something that would be second nature to  Burstein having worked in Fashion for so many years where artisans in the way of craft makers are still held with the highest of esteems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">So where did his love of leather books first come from? Well, it was sparked whilst in Paris by the opening of the first-ever Filofax franchise where beautiful leather diaries and handcrafted desk accessories were on offer, he was intoxicated by this style of crafted leather goods.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Leathersmith-jumper-grey-detail2.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"580\" height=\"580\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Leathersmith-jumper-grey-detail2.jpg?resize=580%2C580&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-136518\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Leathersmith-jumper-grey-detail2.jpg?w=682&amp;ssl=1 682w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Leathersmith-jumper-grey-detail2.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/07\/Leathersmith-jumper-grey-detail2.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Now Burstein looks to evolve his brand <em>Leathersmith of London<\/em> into a lifestyle brand, firstly with a range of stylish and practical bags and small leather goods as well as featuring a relaxed and modern menswear collection informed by his many decades of experience working in the world of craft ad design.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>\u201c<em>Despite being a heritage brand and existing for the best part of two centuries, when I discovered Leathersmith of London, it was largely unknown. It has given me the opportunity to do what I love the most, which is building brands, and so what is going to be really exciting is taking a business with such a long and storied history, and evolving it into a modern lifestyle proposition, all the while retaining its leather goods heritage.\u201d<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Simon Burstein<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>(The) Place London, a  retail concept<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Central to Burstein\u2019s vision for the <em>Charfleet Bookbindery<\/em> and <em>Leathersmith of London<\/em> is his retail stores, The Place London (a menswear and womenswear store a couple of doors down from each other) in Connaught Village and replicated in Paris in the heart of St Germain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">Going back to his roots, building a novel retail experience that showcases for women emerging fashion talent of any age and nationality, and for men, an incubator of artisanal craftsmanship under the <em>Leathersmith of London<\/em> brand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">People, places and brands all have heritage behind them, all encompass The Art of Craft.  Behind that heritage comes craft artisanal know-how and real passion. <br \/><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/leathersmith.co.uk\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Leathersmith Of London<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.charfleetbookbindery.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Charfleet Bookbinder<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">If you enjoyed reading <em>The Art of Craft<\/em>  why not read <a href=\"https:\/\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/flowers-and-filth\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Flowers and Filth her<em>e<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-secondary-color has-text-color wp-block-paragraph\">.Cent Magazine London <strong>Be Inspired;<em>Get Involved<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On the edge of the mainland of south Essex find Canvey Island, separated from the mainland by a network of&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":136526,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1,5],"tags":[],"features_issues":[],"featured_themes":[16209],"ppma_author":[16671],"class_list":["post-136484","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-100-percent-design","category-fashion","featured_themes-cover"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO 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