{"id":15750,"date":"2014-09-10T10:33:52","date_gmt":"2014-09-10T09:33:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=15750"},"modified":"2014-09-10T10:33:52","modified_gmt":"2014-09-10T09:33:52","slug":"fashion-and-art-collide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=15750","title":{"rendered":"Fashion and Art Collide"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/SMZandraRhodesAndrewLogan-300x265.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-15752\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/SMZandraRhodesAndrewLogan-300x265.jpg?resize=300%2C265\" alt=\"SMZandraRhodesAndrewLogan-300x265\" width=\"300\" height=\"265\" \/><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">At London Fashion Week you are just as likely to find Tracey Emin, the poster girl of Brit Art, or Peter Blake, the Godfather of Pop Art, sitting front row as you are a buyer from Browns or a twittering blogger. The worlds of fashion and art have long been blurred along the borders offering a fertile relationship of inspiration, collaboration and dialogue.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">At the dawning of the 20<span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">th<\/span>\u00a0century French fashion couturier Paul Poiret was inspired by dance and theatre, specifically the exotic Ballets Russes. He collaborated with artists from Raoul Dufy to Georges Lepape. Informed by the obsessions of the day, from Orientalism to Primitivism, the designer stitched ideas into the garments pertaining to modernism, freedom and ethnicity.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">While economic downturns and hard times can often pressurise the populace to conform, they have also provoked immense creativity and imagination. As artists and designers already tend to live on the fringes of society, outside the norm, so when others are panicked into paralysis they throw off the straitjacket of convention and seize the opportunity to experiment. There have been key moments throughout the twentieth century where the threat of war or the reality of fiscal fiasco has encouraged a bandying together of creative types. It is at times like these that the original thinker will often believe they have nothing left to lose.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">Following the Wall Street Crash of 1929 fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli was part of a creative milieu in pre-war Europe. Schiaparelli collaborated with Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau who was central to the Parisian demimonde that included Picasso, Dietrich and Piaf. Cocteau also worked with Schiaparelli\u2019s archrival Coco Chanel. Surrealist art has proved a constant source of inspiration in fashion be it a leaf shoe by Manolo Blahnik or an amusing hat by Stephen Jones.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">In the twilight world of New York in the 1960s and \u201870s another group of artists and designers, prompted by the availability of low rents, took advantage of vast loft spaces that became the playground for a twenty-four hour lifestyle that mingled art and culture, fashion and music. At its centre was Andy Warhol\u2019s Factory studio. Warhol even published his own magazine\u00a0<span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">Andy Warhol\u2019s Interview<\/span>\u00a0that documented the fabulous lifestyles of New York\u2019s in-crowd, who became the focus of artworks. The artist created dresses patterned with Brillo and Campbell\u2019s soup packaging prints and a series of cut-up collage dresses, which in turn were a recent inspiration for Michael van der Ham.<\/span><span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">In the late 1970s with industrial unrest, high inflation, doles queues and Margaret Thatcher waiting in the wings, London\u2019s artist community went feral. Abandoned Victorian warehouses on the banks of the Thames became an artistic refuge for the likes of Derek Jarman and sculptor Andrew Logan. Out of this community emerged fashion designers Bill Gibb and Zandra Rhodes and a new youthful group that included filmmaker John Maybury and designers Bodymap who were just emerging from art school and living in shared squats around the capital.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">The British art school system is the envy of the world spearheaded by two institutions, which have turned out an endless roll call of celebrated fashion designers. St Martin\u2019s School of Art (now Central Saint Martins) and the Royal College of Art have constructed between them a tradition of self-expression and theoretical conceptualism combined with technical nous. Graduates are a peculiar breed with a genuine curiosity beyond the buttons and bows, as intellectually curious and provocative as their Brit Art contemporaries.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">Artist Grayson Perry, as well known for his flamboyant transvestitism as for his confrontational ceramics, collaborates annually with the textile students at Central Saint Martins on a special project. The students design frocks for his alter ego Claire, with wonderfully vibrant and often X-rated results. Louis Vuitton was a co-sponsor for Grayson Perry\u2019s exhibition at the British Museum and in return Perry redesigned their trademark traveling trunk. Perry emerged out of the maelstrom that was 1980s club culture, a scene that naively mixed media, art, fashion, film and music and which included the iconoclast Leigh Bowery, who was the product of a British fashion system that melds street life with nightlife, art school with artisan. Bowery designed outfits that pushed the boundaries of clothing, good taste and sexuality, which he paraded on London\u2019s nightclub scene, the dancefloor becoming his catwalk. As Bowery gained confidence (something our fashion mavericks have in spades) his look became more exotic, provocative and complex. He became his own walking work of art and was welcomed by the art world, appearing for a week in 1988 as a living sculpture in the window of the Anthony D\u2019Offey gallery. Later he became an inspiration for artist Lucien Freud, father of fashion designer Bella.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Model Kate Moss is another famed sitter of Freud. As many beauties before her, Moss has been the focus of endless artistic interpretations from the na\u00efve portrait by Stella Vine to the solid gold statue by Marc Quinn. The supermodels enigmatic persona (she is rarely seen to speak or give interviews) makes her the ideal candidate for artists who can project their visions upon her. Moss was also captured in ghostly holographic film footage for Alexander McQueen, who, of course, was one of the most celebrated practitioners of the fashion show as art event, constructing shows that were awe inspiring yet combative; an exquisite assault. Hussein Chalayan\u2019s catwalk presentations are equally concerned with politics, nationality and identity as with hemlines and tailoring.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">The Young British Artists who became prominent in the 1990s embraced fast-fashion\u2019s throwaway ethos and were wildly entrepreneurial and self-promoting, partying outrageously with the fashion pack.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">Tracey Emin questions the value of everyday objects and how they can become imbued with meaning. This was the narrative for a short film called, \u2018Sometimes The Dress Is Worth More Money Than The Money\u2019 that featured the artist wearing a wedding dress covered in bank notes (a Greek tradition). Emin, who has modelled for Vivienne Westwood, uses embroidery and appliqu\u00e9 to convey intense emotions, painful memories and an underlying introspection and self-analysis. Artist Cindy Sherman has collaborated with Marc Jacobs and Comme des Gar\u00e7ons. Her work explores identity and appearance and underlines the modern pre-occupation with two obsessions: self and shopping. We have become what we wear.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"font-style: inherit; color: #000000;\">Throughout the years there have been many more examples of designers and artists who have collaborated, inspired or influenced in some shape or form. Whether blatant, referential or allusive this exchange of ideas continues to be a work (of art) in progress.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<em><span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">From an essay that appeared as the foreword for FASHION AND ART COLLUSION, published by Booth-Clibborn Editions, 2012 \u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><em><span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">\u00a9 Fondation Pierre Berg\u00e9 \u2013 Yves Saint Laurent\u00a0&#8211; \u00a0by Guy Marineau<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><em>\u00a0<span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">\u00a0Tom Ford A\/W 13 courtesy of Tom Ford<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><em><span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">Zandra Rhodes Paiting \u2013 Glass and Mirror by Andrew Logan and Zandra Rhodes photograph Zandra Rhodes<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #444444;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><em><span style=\"font-style: inherit;\">\u201cMiro, Miro on the wall\u201d acrylic on canvas by Duggie Fields<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>At London Fashion Week you are just as likely to find Tracey Emin, the poster girl of Brit Art, or&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15751,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"features_issues":[],"featured_themes":[],"ppma_author":[16671],"class_list":["post-15750","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Fashion and Art Collide | Cent 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