Patrick McDowell presents their SS25 collection inspired by the Queer British artist, Glyn Philpot. Illustrating the brand’s commitment to multi-disciplinary creativity, the collection bridges fashion, art and culture. Patrick McDowell\u2019s appreciation for history saw them dive into the Tate archives to explore the letters written by Glyn Philpot to close friends and family, helping to establish the life behind the artist’s work. McDowell sought out Glyn Philpot\u2019s remaining relatives to gain a personal insight into the life of the eminent artist and bring a sense of authenticity to the collection. After discovering the two contrasting lives Glyn experienced, one of society and status and one of queer identity and true expression, it became clear that the collection should celebrate and fuse both. This season\u2019s collection aims to highlight the reality of many queer people living a dual existence<\/p>\n\n\n\n Natasha Zinko<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Ever since one American housewife by the name of Timmie Jean Lindsey became the first person to receive silicone breast implants in the distant year of 1962, plastic is everywhere. True as this may be (for silicone is indeed a plastic polymer) the fact remains that the \u2018plastic\u2019 we all know and love to hate in \u2018plastic surgery\u2019 comes from the Greek plastikos (from plassein \u2018to mould\u2019) and refers to the medical practice\u2019s purpose of, yes, moulding; forming, altering the physical appearance of, giving shape and novel structure to the body. It is our modern zeitgeist\u2019s radical appropriation of this \u2018moulding\u2019, whereby antiquity\u2019s mutilated burn victim has, in some telling turn of events, been replaced by the contemporary individual dissatisfied aesthetically with her\/his\/their own healthy body, that Natasha Zinko dissects in her SS25 collection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hu Bing – Consistence<\/a><\/mark><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n From this year onward, HU BING SELECTS will become a recurring feature at London Fashion Week, showcasing his keen eye for innovation and emerging talent. With a career spanning over 30 years in fashion, film, and television, Hu Bing is not only a cultural icon but also an advocate for young designers and fashion innovation. Leveraging his vast social media following, with over 13 million on Weibo and 5 million on Douyin, he is fixture on best-dressed lists and a regular guest at luxury events such as those hosted by Ferrari, Louis Vuiton, and Rolls-Royce, HuBing seamlessly blends personal style with his commitment to supporting fashion. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Sabirah<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Love, Community, Connection, Empathy and Unity SABIRAH is a sustainably conscious Demi Couture Modest-Wear brand founded by Stylist and Creative Director, Deborah Latouche. Sabriah – Collection 1.8 Lovingly Modest at London Fashion Week SS25 in partnership with Schwarzkopf Pro. 13th Sept 2024 \u00a9Olu Ogunshakin<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ahluwalia<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Home Sweet Home is a collection that captures the richness of memory, migration, and the desire\/search for belonging\u2014a universal tribute to the homes we carry within us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Echoes of belonging, the pull of distant memories, and a secure sense of self\u2014Ahluwalia\u2019s SS25 collection serves as an homage to the profound ties that bind us to our roots. Inspired by the stories of those who have traversed continents, the collection reflects on the emotional landscapes of migration, the lingering call of ancestral homes, and the delicate balance between past and present. Through this exploration, the designer reimagines the concept of home, intertwining personal history with artistic expression to create a collection that resonates with one\u2019s deepest longings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Chet Lo<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n This Chet Lo SS25 collection, pays homage to a remarkable woman, Mai-Wah Cheung, and her extraordinary journey from pioneering the field of computer sciences to becoming a force in digital media, and eventually, an artist and educator. This collection commemorates my mother.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Mai-Wah Cheung\u2019s story is one of resilience, innovation, and transformation. Beginning her career as one of the first women in Computer Sciences, she broke through the barriers of a male-dominated industry, paving the way for future generations. Her expertise in the digital realm led her to become the Chief Information Officer at Univision, where she played a pivotal role in shaping the future of news networks. Following her corporate success, she embarked on a new path, dedicating herself to teaching and painting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The palette transitions from deep, authoritative tones to lighter, more serene hues, echoing her journey from the high-powered world of technology to the calm of the art studio. Textures play a crucial role, with fabrics that range from structured and resilient to soft and flowing, capturing the essence of both her strength and her vulnerability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Aaron Esh<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Young people wearing old clothes. A low-octane sense of glamour permeates each look, from the exaggerated demi-tinted sunglasses \u2013 evocative of both Old Hollywood airport arrivals and morning-after London commutes \u2013 to bombshell silk and velvet dresses, fastened by bias binding or herringbone twill tape. Suggestions of formalwear are whispered throughout, a reflection of a generational predilection for vintage: the satin stripes of tuxedo trousers isolated as graphical outlines on backless halter-necks; jackets finished with satin-covered buttons and bugle-bead collars glistening beneath the d\u00e9collet\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For a generation entering adulthood, breaking free from the playground connotations of London\u2019s always-emerging reputation, there is a worldly sophistication to this collection. At its heart, this is a collection that speaks to the emotional hinterlands of London and its unparalleled attitude. Of growing up, dreaming big, and making something out of nothing.<\/p>\n\n\n Completed Works<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Seeking harmony in the malleable and the tactile, Spring\/Summer 2025 proposes a dreamlike blurring of the distinctions between the intractable and the unyielding, the frozen and the flowing. Across earrings, necklaces and rings, formal possibilities are usurped and juxtaposed: the rigid flows with the lightness of fabric, the adamantine becomes seemingly effervescent. From this point the collection shifts to grid-like pieces in a motif previously unexplored by Completedworks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n “When Anna approached me to write another piece for Completedworks, I’d just visited the Camille Claudel exhibit at the Getty and was haunted by her story. I knew I wanted to expand on last season’s monologue and write a micro play. The play that has emerged is about an art historian and biographer named Aliza, working on a book about Camille Claudel. I was interested in exploring the challenges women– and in particular, female artists– face and the echoes of their story across time. As well as the way they find freedom through mischief and play.<\/em>” -Fatima Farheen Mirza<\/p>\n\n\n Yuhan Wang<\/a><\/strong> <\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cIn me the tiger sniffs the rose,\u201d<\/em> Siegfried Sassoon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For Spring Summer 2025, Yuhan Wang unveils \u201cThe Rose Fist,\u201d a collection that continues her tribute to the spirit of women. This season, she looked to trailblazing female fighters who made their mark on the world of boxing\u2014Alaia Ali, Barbara Butterick, Bridget Riley, and Jane Couch, to be exact. These formidable figures didn\u2019t just break barriers in a male-dominated arena; they reshaped culture and redefined empowerment on their own terms. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Drawing inspiration from the Fighting Cholitas\u2014a group of female wrestlers who perform in El Alto, Bolivia\u2014there are voluminous skirts with low-slung, exaggerated panniers in lace and nylon. Repurposed fabric off-cuts from dead stock are reconstructed into form-fitting slip dresses and mini skirts. As for the footwear, Dainty 19th century-inspired court shoes, another Yuhan Wang mainstay, take an athletic turn with block colour panels and mesh inserts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n London Fashion Week SS25 – 13th Sept 2024 – Yuhan Wang – The Rose Fist – \u00a9Olu Ogunshakin \/ Chris Yates Media<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dreaming Eli<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n For Spring Summer 25 Dreaming Eli returns to Sicily to delve into the rich mythology steeped in her native enchanted island, drawing inspiration from the Greek myth of Scylla and Charybdis, two monsters that inhabited opposite sides of the Strait of Messina, the channel of water separating Italy from Sicily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The collection gets its inspiration particularly from the figures of Scylla, described in the Odyssey Homer as a supernatural female creature, with 12 feet and 6 heads on long snaky necks, each head having a triple row of sharklike teeth, while her loins were girdled by the heads of baying dogs. From her lair in a cave, she would devour whatever ventured within reach, including six of Odysseus\u2019s companions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Spring Summer 25 explores signature Dreaming Eli corsetry, vintage corsetry elements, such as crinolines, fan laces, busks and suspenders bring structure to the organic textures. The iconic Dreaming Eli triple corset is here deconstructed and developed in new intricate designs. The art of draping and layering makes each piece unique and one of a kind promoting Dreaming Eli ethos of handmade production, which alongside the continuation of exploration of upcycled denim which for the season is cut out and enriched with the delicate lace.<\/p>\n\n\n Bora Aksu<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Bora Aksu, SS25 is the culmination of a life dedicated to the elevation of feminine beauty, a celebration of life in memory of his late mother. SS25 is a joyful elegy written in their shared passion for style and grounded in the profound love and admiration that Birsen Aksu continues to inspire in her son. The collection journeys through the amalgam of Aksu\u2019s Turkish heritage and his mother\u2019s relentless pursuit of style and beauty. The tapestry of Birsen Aksu\u2019s life, and its impact on Bora, come to fruition through intricate weaving and the playful femininity that have become synonymous with his designs. Lush silhouettes and diaphanous fabrics partner with subdued explosions of colour to create pieces that retain Aksu\u2019s signature demi-couture tailoring while allowing for the introduction of bold new elements that elevate the collection as a whole.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cMy whole identity as a designer comes via my mother. Growing up watching her elegance and style as well as her strength as an independent woman instilled in me a deep reverence for femininity and a love for the process of creation, to this day she is my greatest source of inspiration.\u201d – <\/em>Bora Aksu<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bora\u2019s mother balanced life as a mother and paediatrician all while pursuing her love for design. Living in Turkey in the 1960s she found it difficult to find clothes that allowed her to express her individuality. As such, she began designing and creating her own clothes to celebrate her unique style. It is this pursuit of beauty, this celebration of the female spirit that carries through this collection. Central to SS25 are the dual ideas of lushness and the subdued explosions of colour that reflect the focus on colour and texture taken from early photographs of Birsen Aksu. This season Aksu blends traditional and modern in order to expose the sophisticated femininity that transcends decades; traditional embroidery and printing methods are paired with patterns that bring new ideas into a classic method of tailoring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Silhouettes are rich and voluminous, encompassing cropped tailored jackets, draped shirting and layered skirts that can be worn together or as separates. In a striking play of contrasts, sharp tailoring meets soft detailing to deliver garments that pair metres of sheer pastel fabrics with rich floral embroidery reminiscent of mid-century detailing. Blazers combine strong silhouettes with softer, more feminine detailing in the form of laced shoulders and patterned over-sleeves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bora\u2019s relentless pursuit of vintage fabrics from manufacturers continues this season as in the past. Uncovering hidden rolls of limited quantity fabric that is dotted throughout the collection as a celebration of conscious design. From hand-embroidered fabrics in shades of whites and sandy nudes to flowing designs in pale pink and contrasting black, creating striking effects that help to elevate the garments that they adorn. The addition of soft blues, egg yolk yellow, dusty pinks and loud shades of reds infuses drama and romance into the collection.<\/p>\n\n\n Aarti Vijay Gupta <\/strong><\/a> – Postcards from Kashmir<\/mark><\/p>\n\n\n\n It\u2019s called Heaven on Earth for a reason. Kashmir which sits on the northern belt of the country boasts an abundance of greenery, never-ending valleys, powder-coated mountains and lakes you want to float on. For the Spring Summer 2025 showcase, it stood as the singular inspiration for a collection that balances nature and fashion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Gupta with Spring\/Summer 2025 yet again stuck to her roots, with India\u2014which has for the last eight seasons been her anchor\u2014once again proving to be the perfect mood board for a successful collection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ray Chu<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n In the SS25 collection, RAY CHU embraces this flower’s symbolic essence. It incorporates 3D printing technology to convey the bulbous beauty and add depth and dimensionality to the designs. Discarded wires are stripped, dismantled and then reassembled to create a structure brimming with vitality. Through its deconstruction and reconstruction, each layer of wire symbolises the process of giving new life to what was once considered waste. Two ends of the 3D printed flowers echo each other. The flower inspires seamless integration of brand identity and natural elements for ornament meets wearability. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This season’s colour palette revolves around RAY CHU’s signature accent colour, fiery red, complemented by icy yellow, classic black and white, and easy-to-wear tones. The silhouettes and statement details are grounded in practicality, with clever tailored touches like misaligned blazer lapels and subtle details in shirt designs. Playful elements like flared mini skirts and dress silhouettes reminiscent of flowerpots add a whimsical tenderness to the collection. The fabrics chosen include recycled fish scale made textiles, water chestnut yarns, and a higher proportion of natural materials, resulting in a collection that balances commercial appeal with innovative design. <\/p>\n\n\n\n 14th September 2024. A model walks in the Ray Chu Spring Summer 2025 Catwalk show. \u00a9Olu Ogunshakin\/ Chris Yates Media<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/Patrick_McDowell_SS25_1044_copy_768x1152.jpg?resize=580%2C870&ssl=1\")
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\u201cI was inspired by recent family events where I truly saw what it means for a community to come together and show LOVE, UNITY and EMPATHY at a time of need. It\u2019s so special and something that the world needs right now. Our house was full of cards and sweet smelling flowers that reminded me of Monet\u2019s beautiful painterly scenes of the French Countryside\u201d<\/em> Latouche says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Inspired by the floral displays peppered around her living room, the colour palette this season consists of sweet hues in light rose, mint, aqua, sage lemon meringue, coco and cream. Latouche has welcomed a Paisley Rainbow print into her collection this season re-introducing print for the first time since 2022. Pieces for the modern bride are also encapsulated in Lovingly Modest Collection 1.8, a nod to the more literal theme of love. End-of-life Italian silk, taffeta and striped organza adorn structured cream gowns, jackets and capes exploring femininity and form.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/Sabirah_show_model_walking_001.jpg?resize=400%2C600&ssl=1\")
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Old people wanting to look eternally youthful.
Herein lies a delicate harmony that speaks to the instincts and impulses of Aaron Esh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/aaron-25.png?resize=580%2C281&ssl=1\")
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