{"id":58986,"date":"2019-05-24T16:00:10","date_gmt":"2019-05-24T15:00:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=58986"},"modified":"2019-05-28T11:00:33","modified_gmt":"2019-05-28T10:00:33","slug":"ratio-from-part-to-whole","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/?p=58986","title":{"rendered":"Ratio; From Part to whole"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\">The more one loves perfume, the more one wants to know about perfume.\u00a0 The more one learns about perfume the more one loves it.\u00a0 But how does one get to understand it and love it a little more?\u00a0 What do we mean when we read about the scent of Jasmine? Well, should you want to explore more of what a single note smells like that is say,\u00a0 included in a favourite fragrance or experience a singular ingredient in its purest form, then step no further than the Osten online store.<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\">Ostens,initially a pop-up store; this store come art gallery, part exhibition,\u00a0 part chemistry experience is the brainchild of the excellent and extremely talented duo,\u00a0 Christopher Yu and Laurent Delafon, founders of fragrance distributor, licensors called United Perfumes.\u00a0 United perfumes have bought divine niche fragrances to the UK including Maison Francis kurkdjian, Cire Trudon, and many more.\u00a0 Their utter understanding of not just scent, but marketing, distribution,\u00a0 and quality of materials set them perfectly placed to bring this unique experience come shop, to our doors. For sale and for the experience, are presented five perfumes and five individual ingredients.\u00a0The idea is to showcase a material singularly,\u00a0 a treat so rare for customers and then following on to also highlight how this material can be used in a perfume.<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\">In the world of perfumery, this sort of disruption is rare.\u00a0 But its rarest of all because they work directly with\u00a0the ingredient company LMF and\u00a0 IFF (International Flavours and Fragrances), who create the materials, ( the individual ingredient of a fragrance) so that these can be presented and sold in the shop in an entirely accessible way, never presented like before as usually it is only industry people that smell them in their singular format and certainly the public never get to buy pure ingredients themselves.<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\">What is actually on offer at Ostens?\u00a0 So there are two styles, Pr\u00e9paration, and Impression.<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-59337\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil--1024x681.jpg?resize=580%2C386\" alt=\"A Oil\" width=\"580\" height=\"386\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg?resize=1024%2C681&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg?resize=300%2C199&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg?resize=600%2C399&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg?resize=680%2C452&amp;ssl=1 680w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg?resize=770%2C512&amp;ssl=1 770w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg?w=1500&amp;ssl=1 1500w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/staging.centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-Oil-.jpg?w=1160&amp;ssl=1 1160w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">The Pr\u00e9parations are the individual\u00a0materials in oil\u00a0 (including the highest amount that IFRA will allow because of potential irritation issues), the five are Rose Oil Isparta,\u00a0 Jasmine Absolute\u00a0 Cedarwood Heart, Patchouli Heart, and Cashmeran Velvet.\u00a0 Impressions are each of these five materials fashioned into five Eau de Parfum, by some of the best noses in the business.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">The Jasmine (from Eypgt)\u00a0 to start within its oil form is an utter delight, and so pure that is like sniffing the most intense flower in the heat of the evening.\u00a0 A\u00a0clean, fresh scented oil of idolic headiness that one could imagine the most notable royals of past era anointing themselves with it. The perfume EDP\u00a0 is by the remarkable\u00a0Perfumer Bruno Jovanovic (very known for his\u00a0Frederic Malle fragrances) who has bought together an additive Jasmine that is totally modern not old lady white florals of the past.\u00a0 It also contains other important notes of\u00a0Davana Oil,\u00a0 Ylang Extra,\u00a0 Lavandin Absolute and\u00a0Sandalwood Mineral Accord.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Then there is the\u00a0Rose oil from Isparta, a Turkish Rose oil distilled in large copper stills. This makes it a fruity Rose a rich red tone of Rose with a Lychee facet.\u00a0 \u00a0The perfume by\u00a0Dominique Ropion is seeing it like a Rothko painting.\u00a0 Red,\u00a0 red and red with a dark centre that draws you in.\u00a0 It also contains\u00a0Pink Pepper, Rose Essential,\u00a0 Patchouli,\u00a0 Labdanum, Resinoid, and Cashmeran. So deep red,\u00a0 deep sensuality; A deep love\u00a0letter of the most modern take on the Rose.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Next comes Cedarwood which hails from Virginia.\u00a0 A woody creamy sappy smell and one that can so often be misunderstood.\u00a0 In the capable hands of\u00a0Perfumer Alexis Dadier who says it\u00a0<em>\u201csmells of the very heart of a tree trunk which would have just been cut in half. It smells of sap, with a slight humidity, it is also mouth-wateringly creamy, milky, almost vanilla-like.\u201d<\/em>. Within the EDP are\u00a0Bergamot Oil, Cardamom Oil, Violet Leaf absolute, Galbanum Heart, Oris concrete and Patchouli which makes the perfume woody yet warm with a sweet vanilla hit.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\"><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Cashmeran comes next worked on by Sophie Labb\u00e9.<i>\u00a0<\/i> In her hands, this incense, woody, ambery oil becomes as comforting as its name implies. The EDP contains\u00a0\u00a0Cedarwood Oil Sandalwood Oil Vanilla Bean Extract and Patchouli Heart LMR. Smouldering embers meets softness in this fragrance.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Lastly one of the &#8216;marmite&#8217; ingredients Patchouli.\u00a0 And maybe that is why they have worked with two perfumes to create these EDP\u00a0 versions.\u00a0\u00a0The first is by\u00a0Domitille Michalon-Berthier and is described as melting wax. The resinous dust from a violin\u2019s bow. Crushed biscuits, cooked molasses. Old bricks, decorative tiles, worn stone floors.\u00a0<span style=\"font-size: 1.125rem; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: 'Akkurat Std', -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/span>I<span style=\"color: #333333;\">t contains\u00a0Rosemary, Lavandin, Lavender Absolute Immortelle Absolute and Ciste Labdanum Absolute<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333333;\">The second is by\u00a0Sophie Labb\u00e9 of which she says of the Patchouli oil:-<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-style: italic; color: #333333;\">LMR Patchouli Heart is a sublimated patchouli. It carries the beautiful, rich and dense notes of patchouli without its often earthy and camphoreous aspects. It is elegant, deep and mysterious.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333333;\">Her EDP contains\u00a0Cypress Oil,\u00a0Black Pepper,\u00a0Violet Leaf absolute,\u00a0Iris resinoid,\u00a0Cypriol Heart and\u00a0Cashmeran and is described by Ostens as being\u00a0Church cloisters, pressed flowers, ink on parchment.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-perfume.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-59338\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/centmagazine.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/A-perfume-1024x681.jpg?resize=580%2C386\" alt=\"A perfume\" width=\"580\" height=\"386\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40;\">For those that are either inquisitive or love fragrance this place is the most wonderful Aladdin&#8217;s cave of scent,\u00a0 but alongside each scent is a visual representation of each fragrance.\u00a0 Like synesthetic paintings, hanging from the walls as you wander around like walking into colourful clouds of scent, whilst the oils sit on plinths simple vials perched like miniature gods.\u00a0\u00a0The project a one of love passion and craftsmanship also brings in important factors like provenance,\u00a0\u00a0and freedom for perfume makers and buyers alike.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #3d3e40; text-align: right;\">Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/ostens.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">here <\/a>\u00a0 ostens.com<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"color: #000000;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"color: #000000;\">\n<div id=\"mntl-sc-block_1-0-30\" class=\"comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #231f20;\">\u2018<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"mntl-sc-block_1-0-31\" class=\"comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-adslot mntl-block\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The more one loves perfume, the more one wants to know about perfume.\u00a0 The more one learns about perfume the&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":59338,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5],"tags":[13581,13579,13578,13576,13580,2039,13575,12059,13175,13577,1482,1485,13574],"features_issues":[],"featured_themes":[],"ppma_author":[16671],"class_list":["post-58986","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-alexis-dadier","tag-bruno-jovanovic","tag-cashmeran-velvet","tag-cedarwood-heart","tag-domitille-michalon-berthier","tag-fragrance","tag-jasmine-absolute","tag-oils","tag-ostens","tag-patchouli-heart","tag-perfume","tag-scent","tag-sophie-labbe"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Ratio; 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