Niche Is Nicest; Smell Unique
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That awkward moment; you know the one, when you go into the party and someone has the exact, same, sparkly shirt on as you, not just similar but a mirror image, the same colour, same size, same make… You don’t even think about who looks better, too caught up in the horror of feeling, a little graceless, exposed, and not very special? Do you feel the same if you pass someone or even go somewhere with a bunch of friends, and you are wearing the same scent as someone? Yes, these are 1st world problems, but nevertheless, they are still a bit of a horror show. Worry not, here are some new ideas in Niche Is Nicest; Smell Unique.
Image Samantha Inman @rememberingtobreathe
Not unlike high street fashion, many perfumes are produced as massive market scents, widely available in every chain-store chemist and department store. So it’s not so unusual to encounter someone else wearing the same scent. If you did it on purpose because you love the smell of it on a friend and bought it for yourself, no worries, but never forget that each person has a unique smell, and so each perfume will smell different, even though very slightly. If you didn’t buy it because of someone else, you may feel a little miffed when you smell it on them…
But scent, just like fashion, can be as individual as the wearer wishes it to be. This has a huge amount to do with the growth over the last 40 years of independent or niche perfumes coming onto the market and how we as buyers and lovers of fragrance have greeted this arena with wide open arms.
If you are a fragrance fan, you may well have heard the word Niche bouncing around a lot. You may even know that it usually means independent brands often run by the perfumes’ noses, creating only small batches and selling in specialist stores. But do you know how it came to be?
The first wave of change was brought by perfumers and brands wanting to restore ‘dignity’ back to perfumery and have it seen as an art form, rather than what it had become, a marketing exercise. Up until then, the market had been dominated by big brand names creating perfumes either driven by celebrities or big marketing budgets, allowing for wall-to-wall advertising and perfumes created to please focus groups.
This meant that perfumes were somewhat ‘safe’ and ‘nice’, nothing too dramatic and nothing where the ingredients were king. Why use expensive, rare ingredients when a good synthetic could be used instead: Easier to use, cheaper to make and rather bland.
But there is always a backlash when things are really not as good as they could or should be. The late 20th century saw a resurgence of interest in niche perfumery, partly due to increasing demand for unique and personalized fragrances, and in response to the ubiquity of designer perfume brands, as well as the growing popularity of natural and new ingredients. But most of all because of the rebellious spirits of a handful of perfume makers and ‘noses’.
Key names and early pioneers of the new niche perfumery included the likes of Frédéric Malle 2000, L’Artisan Parfumeur 1976, Annick Goutal 1981, and Serge Lutens 1982 (initially with Shisiedo). We say new niche as some brands like Creed, Penhaligons, Floris and other houses that existed for hundreds of years but were seen as almost independent of the scent industry, often because they grew from areas like barbershops or leather goods makers.
This counter-movement to the mass-market, celebrity-endorsed perfumes that dominated grew in many ways from creatives who wanted to make fragrances that would become new classics of our time or wanted to celebrate and heighten elegant, sometimes expensive and rare ingredients. But who also wanted to be able to work on ideas that grew from a creative process, not a marketing brief from a big brand.
These independent houses often prioritized quality ingredients, unique fragrance compositions, and a more artistic approach to perfumery. The independent spirits emerged into small, independent houses that created expensive, far more unique elixirs.
And interestingly, these were brave individuals who did not know if their creations would take off. They were catering to a smaller, more discerning audience, but they managed to tap into a new arena that has grown significantly since then. These fragrance enthusiasts were and still are seeking unique and high-quality scents that stand out, that offer more unusual ideas of what a good scent is. They even cross into some quite extreme arenas like the scent of Blood, Semen or Rotting Fruit. Inspiration too came from far more unusual sources, people and places.
As this market increases (literally daily) with new experimental brands arriving from all corners of the earth, bringing new ideas, stories and ingredients. It’s hard to put a number now on how many niche perfume companies now exist; however, what has been documented is that the global luxury niche perfume market was valued at a whopping USD 2.397 Billion in 2024.
Over time, niche perfumery has gained popularity and recognition, with many niche brands being acquired by larger luxury conglomerates. But it feels like every day there is a new one born for us to explore.
So to highlight a tiny handful of new brands, meet these few from an awful lot of new small makers.
Who Is Elijah was founded by Australian native Raquel Bouris in 2018 after having an idea sparked at the Coachella festival. The brand’s humble beginnings saw it housed in a garage, of all places. As word of the brand’s scents spread, more curious souls ventured in, eager to experience the fragrance creations firsthand.
Despite not having a background in fragrance, Raquel’s previous role as an Executive Assistant provided valuable insights into the world of business, serving as an introduction to the demands of running a successful venture. In July 2020, while still working full-time as an Executive Assistant, Raquel managed to gain the attention of the Australian major retailer David Jones, enabling her to secure an employee and a storage unit. Over a quick period, her husband joined the venture, and a larger workspace was needed.
The collection, in many ways, is a summation of all that is going on with new approaches to scent. A set of individual ideas that meet with imagination, and then are bottled. With 14 scents in the collection, find modernity across the brand.
Featured here is Cherry Fiesta, a bright, bold and deliciously decadent perfume. It opens with a sharp, tantalizing burst of fruity Mandarin and Pear, their brightness tempered by a provocative hint of soft spice of Anise.
At its core lies a sultry interplay of White Florals and ripe Cherries, a lush, addictive blend that flirts shamelessly between innocence and temptation.
The dry down is where the real magic lingers: warm, creamy Vanilla and Benzoin wrap around the skin like liquid velvet, while Green Patchouli cuts through with an earthy, rebellious edge. This scent is no shy, frightened little elixir but one with power and panache. Sexy and seductive, it’s the modern female bottled.
Other interesting ideas are scents like HIS|HER. Explained like a favourite pair of denim. Worn in, never worn out. It moves with you, becoming a part of you. Effortless, familiar, always just right. With notes of Bergamot, Violet leaf, Cardamom, Florals, Fir needle, and to finish Sandalwood, Cashmere musk, Amber, and Oud. Or Morning After. The scent of bare skin and blurred lines, of whispers exchanged between tangled sheets. It lingers, faint but deliberate, like the memory of hands that traced your body and the whisper of breath against your neck. With notes of warming Cardamom and Violet, earthy Iris and Papyrus with a finale of Musk, Leather, Amber, Cedar, Australian Sandalwood.
Next up, meet Maison Noir, a new scent brand celebrating both home and travel. They have created a fictional place in the form of a townhouse where reality and imagination merge. This house could stand in almost any city around the globe and is an entrance to their unique worlds of scent. This is why they call this place The Gateway to an Olfactive Journey. Once inside, find various numbered and coloured doors
So they advise: Take your time and walk down the corridor. Their ethos is to create perfumes that develop into a world of scent, with the power to inspire people and enable them to discover unique fragrances.
“We try to pay homage to the tradition of French perfume craftsmanship by lending the brand this nostalgic, still modern character.”
Claudio Denz, Co-Founder
Maison Noir is unisex and uses only the best ingredients to realize long-lasting formulas with distinct signatures. All are crafted by the most talented individuals at the industry’s leading perfume houses, and all of the products are made in France and are designed in Switzerland.
Each perfume is not only named but is also numbered, an identifying property that describes its olfactory personality. Featured here is Quandoley 805 Express: A nostalgic luxury train embarks on a captivating odyssey. Eccentric characters, scenic landscapes, and a celebratory atmosphere create a kaleidoscope of moments in life’s journey with no final destination.
The luminous glow of ylang-ylang emerges through the subtle haze of olibanum, perfectly balanced with the bitter notes of olive oil and carried by gourmand vanilla. A spicy, wild and woody scent made up of an opening of fruity yet bitter-faceted Olive Oil, with resinous, slightly sweet, leathery, and animalic Cistus, and with soft spice from Pink Pepper
Its heart is floral, sweet and dreamy Ylang-Ylang, alongside sweet and resinous Styrax, and finally, in its heart, find fresh spice of Olibanum
Its finale brings depth and longevity via balsamic hints, caramel, and almond from Benzoin, creamy warm richness from Vanilla, and earthy animalic smoke of Oud.
Others in the collection include Icarus 347, a clean, green and fruity EDP. Carried on a foundation of Tonka beans and Ambroxan, forbidden fruit and Patchouli that form a symbiotic relationship. Or Vertigo 236, a citrus, clean and woody bold, fresh and ozonic at heart, this scent tops off with aromatic citrus notes. Or Volantis 685 with Wood Spice and Amber. Rich, warm with Ambroxan and Cedarwood base. Shy Leather accords and a twist of Saffron lend a distinct personality. There are seven scents in the collection and five scented candles as well.
Now, for a slight side step in the world of niche perfume comes Amorrecco, the world’s first clickable perfume. Yup, you read that right. Late Night Gelato by Amorecco
The first intimate wellness brand to unite taste and scent. Their delectable fragrances and carefully crafted bottles invite exploration, expression and confidence. The new vanilla and coconut lickable perfume is available in a 15ml sample and a 50ml bottle.
“We saw how scent could transport us instantly to a memory, how taste could awaken desire, and how these sensations, when combined, could create something extraordinary. Yet, in the world of intimate wellness, these powerful senses were often overlooked – relegated to separate experiences that never entirely connected”.
Ameorecco
Sweet indulgence meets sensual pleasure. Vanilla and Coconut melt together in an irresistibly lickable scent. Made to be sprayed, tasted and devoured: Dessert with benefits.
Other brands we have discovered this past year include the British brand Karen Timpson. Growing up in Kent, the ‘Garden of England’, Karen was always aware that she could smell things in a way that no one else could. Later in her nursing career, she instinctively knew when one of her patients had an undiagnosed infection or uncontrolled diabetes.
“What makes every perfume I create stand out from the crowd is the storytelling. Within every fragrance nestles a tale, whether it is for someone or about someone, real or mythical; as the layers of fragrance unfold, so the story begins… ”
Karen Timpson
Karen’s childhood memories are a patchwork of olfactory experiences. From the green earthy smells of dens made in the woods to the ‘fortresses’ elaborate constructs from newly baled, sweet, peppery Hay.
Following many years of study, working with fragrance and materials, and undertaking accredited formal training in perfumery, Karen set up her own perfume lab and launched Karen Timson Fragrance.
Karen’s fragrance style has a delicate, watercolour feel. Drawing inspiration from a variety of sources, including myth and legend, her travels around the world, and her own fertile imagination.
Karen’s fragrances combine balance with wearability, modernity with old-fashioned quality and a clear vision with technical skill and expertise. There are six perfumes in her collection and one diffuser.
Another British brand that deals with Home Fragrance is LORDS
With over a decade of experience in the cosmetic and fragrance industry, Sarah Lord started Lord’s Fragrance House after the gaping hole left by Covid.
Sarah sought a positive project to immerse myself in to lift her and fill the hole. She sat down and began to write, filling the pages with the flow of fragrant oils. So become her company…
Inspired by nature and her global travels, Sasha Lord creates colourfully conscious, luxurious, vegan home fragrances, designed to enrich your interiors.
Crafted in collaboration with passionate experts, whose combined mission is to bring joy to your happy places and infuse your surroundings with the essence of wondrous destinations around the world
Colour is a power she utilises, with wonderful hues across all the packaging. In previous roles where the workwear was predominantly black, she knew that bold branding was a must for her label.
The collection includes candles, diffusers, hand and body lotions, fragranced oils, room and linen sprays, soap bars and scent-related accessories.
There are 12 scents within the collection, including Big Sur, Kaikoura, Monteverde, Oxfordshire, Pengelli Forest, Positano, San Ignacio Lagoon, Trebarwith Strand, Yellowstone, and the latest Glencoe
Imagine yourself hiking the path of Glencoe, an area of outstanding natural beauty in Scotland. The long days in a cozy bothy (free-to-use shelter, often a converted old cottage or hut) with a crackling fire and a warming drink in hand. This scent captures the essence of this magical place and the wonderful memories made there.
A unique combination of Scottish pine, Honey, Heather, Tobacco leaf, and Patchouli, along with warm undertones of Tonka bean, Vetiver, and Cedarwood, creates the cosiest of scents.
Now, should the idea of new niche scents or even more established perfumes inspire, then the Barns Fragrance Fair may just be the perfect destination event.
This is the ultimate destination for fragrance lovers and the curious, featuring more than 25 British and European brands as well as an extraordinary lineup of fragrance-focused talks and workshops, the fair promises a plethora of perfumed delights.
“Our aim is to make the third Barnes Fragrance Fair a joyous, scented experience for everyone. A place to find your new favourite fragrance as well as learn how important scent can be to our everyday wellbeing.”
Amanda Carr, founder of Barnes Fragrance Fair
The Barnes Fragrance Fair is an experiential perfumed playground showcasing the very best in independent perfumery with founders, perfumers and fragrance experts.
Entry to the fair is free with a small fee for the talks and workshops, all of which can be booked via Eventbrite here:
So, as the world of Niche expands, we are all in the position to express our individuality via the scent we spray, the fragrance we use to present ourselves to the world or to ourselves.
Without these masters and madames, the world of perfume would be a much poorer place, run by consensus groups, scent would just be something nice. Now fragrance can be literally any mention each wearer chooses to explore.
If you enjoyed reading Niche Is Nicest; Smell Unique, why not read Waltz Your Way Through here
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