The Scent of Light and Dark Crafted with Love by Amouage

The latest scent from Amouage the perfumery house based in, and in celebration of the contemporary majesty of Oman is called Guidance 46. This new Extrait is a study in light and shade, fragility and strength, subtlety and ostentatiousness. These paradoxes are brought together with an immediacy that can be achieved only by the art of perfumery.  Dosed at a staggering 46% concentration. But where does the idea of light and dark come from? Is it a metaphor for something else?

All Images Samantha Inman @rememberingtobreathe

Light and dark as a phrase comes from Renaissance Art, Italian in origin and is known by its full name Chiaroscuro. The term references the contrast of light (chiar) and dark (oscuro) to model three-dimensional forms in the world of art. A metaphor for these artists who for the first time explored the idea of light in life and painting. It’s bold, voluptuous; full of drama and life. And it’s fair to say this new Scent is just that, rich, full and built on the very historic beauty of Chiaroscuro. After all the home of the Brand Oman is an ancient civilisation.

Sacred Love Versus Profane Love (c. 1602–1603). Oil on canvas, 240 x 143 cm (94.4 x 56.2 in). Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, Rome

The House of Amouage talks of looking ‘forward with great expectations to build on the legacy of its past and to form a bridge of continuity between what has gone before and that which is to come’ with its core roots its homeland.

Oman is thought to have been occupied during the Palaeolithic and Neolithic eras. The city or region is typically etymologized in Arabic from ʿāmin or ʿamūn meaning ‘settled’ people, as opposed to the Bedouin. Others feel it derives the name from the origin of the city’s founders, the Azd, a tribe migrating from Yemen.

There is much agreement that frankincense used by traders in 1500 BCE came from here. In fact, there is an area called The Land of Frankincense a site in Oman on the Incense Road. The site includes frankincense trees, an estuary and the remains of a caravan oasis, which were crucial to the medieval incense trade.

Unsurprisingly then one of the key ingredients in this new elixir is Frankincense. The English word Frankincense derives from the Old French expression Franc Encens, meaning ‘true incense’. Also known as Olibanum it is an aromatic resin used in incense and perfumes, obtained from trees of the genus Boswellia tree. It is mentioned in both the Old and New Testaments as well as, the Quran.

As for its scent? It may start out with a smoky rather than woody facet but then it bears a resemblance to other resinous notes characterized by a piney, sharp freshness.

So in this floral Amber Extrait Guidance 46 how does it work and where does it sit? Well, the scent opens with resinous Frankincense, alongside a slight hit of warmth spice with Pink Pepper and then unusually sitting here find almost delicious gourmand notes (but not sweet here) of Rose Water, Hazelnuts, and bitter Almonds with hints of juicy Pear.

The body or heart of the scent again is an enigma with the enigmatic honeyed and slightly spicy even leathery notes of Saffron, that sit along the queen of flowers the Rose, the richness of Sambac Jasmine, and the peachy skin scent of Osmanthus.

The crescendo is a meeting to tie all the facets together here with rich and animalic Ambergris, offset with woods of sandalwood and the multifaceted Akigalawood with its spicy and woody facets similar to an earthy Patchouli alongside resinous and decadent Georgywood. Next comes a woody and deep, with smoky notes of leather with Cistus, followed by a woody, earthy and smoky note of Cypriol warm, The warmth of an Amber note comes via Ambrette with its sweet, musky, slightly animal facets, and a slither of pear notes. Finally to bring a warm enveloping finale comes Vanilla.

Guidance 46 by Amouage is an Exceptional Extrait created by perfumer Quentin Bisch under the direction of Chief Creative Officer Renaud Salmon. It is a new interpretation of the fragrance Guidance.

As an independent company, Amouage is committed to using the highest quality materials. Amouage products include its long-lasting perfumes and luxurious bath ranges, to its beautifully perfumed range of candles and parfums d’ambience.

Arabian perfume culture lies at the heart of Amouage and is woven into the very fabric of every creation. Built on the legacy of its past and forming a bridge of continuity between what has gone before and that which is to come, without ever forgetting the brand’s roots in its home of Oman. Here with Guidance 46 find not just the light and the dark the Chiaroscuro, but also the depth intertwined and scented to give a luxury long- lasting trail.

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