Yellow is the Colour of The Sun’s Rays

Yes as Soul to Soul sang in the song ‘Keep On Movin’ yellow is the colour of the sun’s rays, it is also the colour of the brightest of stars in a night sky and the colour of spring daffodils as well as the colour that brings to mind fresh zesty days, and the fruit that is the grapefruit, of course. Long been an ingredient in perfume associated with a burst of opening freshness, but now returns as a major scent in its own right via Perseus the new fragrance from the Parisian scent house Parfums de Marly

Yellow is such an evocative colour, one that feels full of life, the optimum of summer; a colour that makes us happy just by its very presence. In the world of perfumery when we think of the colour yellow we think of bright citruses like Lemons and Grapefruits.

Traditionally, citrus ingredients are used in what is called the top notes of a perfume. So what are these and why are they used this way? So ‘top notes’ in perfume are the ingredients we initially smell when we first spray a scent. These notes ‘open’ the fragrance but tend not to last for long. They set the ‘tone’ for the initial feeling but don’t stay on the skin for very long.

Why you may well ask? well, they are regarded as ‘volatile’. This means that they evaporate quicker than ingredients that are in the heart or base notes. This is because very simply put these volatile ingredients are made of ‘small molecules’ less ‘heavy’ hence why they spend less time on the skin.

‘Medium weight’ notes such as flowers are ‘heavier’ than citrus notes hence why you will find them in the middle of a perfume, regarded as heart notes. Then the heaviest notes are wood resins and even some musks that last the longest and are referred to as base notes.

So why does this even matter? Well in truth it doesn’t really matter, except it does as it’s a matter of chemistry, but it also matters if you want to create a perfume all about citrus notes, simply because they don’t last, and no one wants a perfume that doesn’t last.

But there are always those brands that change the way things are done and break the rules. Meet Perseus the new Fragrance from Parfum de Marly, a juice that celebrates the Pink Grapefruit.

So how can this be done, we can’t cheat science after all. So this is where the real craft of perfumery shows its hand. Where knowledge of how to mix different ingredients to get a desired scented note.

So in perfumery, we often talk of facets, the parts that make up a whole. So for example a Rose smells of well yes a Rose, but it also has many facets. Well once you take into consideration the full smell of a Rose it’s probably fair to say it smells more,  sweet, fresh, and slightly spicy, with undertones of green, fruity, and powdery notes.

This is the case with most ingredients in perfume, you can take any scent ingredient and enhance its notes; obviously, this explanation is the simple science version. It may be shocking to know but some perfumes that are called a Rose scent don’t even have Rose in them; made up of ingredients that have Rose facets and some synthetic notes that are made in a laboratory

So when making a perfume that is ‘Bright yellow” with grapefruit it makes sense that the ingredients used will have facets of brightness as well as use the original notes of citrus alongside others that will ’emphasise’ the desired notes and can be used deeper in the heart or base of the fragrance. This may be a simple explanation but it takes a very good nose to be able to actually do this.

The Château de Marly painted by Pierre-Denis Martin in 1724.

And so to Perseus that is described by the house as ‘Brightness at its Zenith’ by the brand with its co0nnection and celebration of the Sun King Louis XV and his royal residence, Château de Marly. It is the bright sunshine of the early morning the first rays of sunlight where the light flickers off the water from the fountains, it is life, it is vitality it is energy.

‘Its secret lies in the novel blending of a very classic men’s fragrance ingredients, notably the brightness of grapefruit, which contrasts immediately with an elegant, woody facet’

Julien Sprecher, founder and artistic director of the Maison

Contained within a rich yellow bottle, it opens bright, tart, and slightly effervescent, with a luscious red Grapefruit accord that also has Bergamot and a bold aromatic ingredient Blackcurrant Bud that smells green, fruity, tangy, with facets of minty citrus aromas and deep, warm, winey earthy undertones; a bold and clever opening that celebrates the Grapefruit.

At its heart, the perfume reflects back it’s opening, with aromatic Green Mandarin, Pineapple, and Geranium. It also offers a path towards the base notes via the earthy notes of Vetiver.

The base notes or ‘dry down’ the lasting scent on the skin find the warming musky attributes of the cashmere woods and Ambergris accord for depth and softness from dry woods to round off the whole fragrance.

From an opening of vital and bright to warm and sexy earthiness in its base. A luminous and refreshing creation, combined with a long-lasting sillage, something of a signature for the house. But this is unusual in its freshness and brightness as the women’s scents are heavy and rich combining a lightness with a sensual warmth.

And what of its name Perseus? It’s a boy’s name of Greek origin. Perseus was the son of Zeus and Danae. He defeated the Medusa and rescued Andromeda from a sea monster, later marrying her. He is noted for having a constellation of stars named after him.

Bright shining vigorous and alive this scent is both lively and elegant long long-lasting scent that is dynamic and different to those already in the collection. An optimistic fragrance that will carry you throughout the day

Available from 6^th March at Harrods and Parfums de Marly Covent Garden boutique & online Find out more at ParfumsdeMarly.com here

If you enjoyed reading Yellow is the Colour of The Sun’s Rays then why not read Cymande; the Band You Never Knew You Knew here

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