Jil Sander’s Beautiful, and Conceptual Scent, Bottled to Perfection

A house, brand, or company, whatever name you choose to give it, is or should be led by its DNA. Even when its initial creator has gone, what’s left behind is what gives it continuity. In this day and age, when these global names have often diversified into more offerings than the originator gave. Let’s face it, sometimes this causes problems. If the very heritage and values of it are not respected, like, say, with a tie or plate collection, it can be a disaster. One area that many have moved into is perfume. Sometimes with good results, sometimes with bad. So when German-born label Jil Sander announced that they were producing a collection of scents, perfume lovers and those who love the fashions created by her were left hanging in suspense. Well, how did it turn out? Find out more in Jil Sander’s Beautiful and Conceptual Scent, Bottled to Perfection

There is fine and then there is refined.  “Fine”, in most of its meanings, comes from the Latin word “finis”, which means “end”, “limit”, or “boundary”. But “refined” means to bring to a pure state, not unlike looking at something’s core DNA, core values, and core beliefs.

The Luxury house Jil Sander was initially created by Jil Sander (born Heidemarie Jiline Sander) in 1968, with her showing her women’s collection in Hamburg in 1973. Known initially for its clean-lined designs, minimal silhouettes, and scant colours. The values behind it were exceptional craftsmanship with innovative materials, making for a truly modern design aesthetic, one that is still truly adored.

Although she is no longer head of the brand, her creative legacy of conceptual thinking with streamlined purity still holds. It still pioneers a refined conception of luxury and elegance, and it still carries her original, distinctive handwriting.

So it was a real headline grabber when it was announced that Jil Sander would produce a scent collection. Already launched in Europe, it arrives in London this July. And in keeping with the DNA, it has a somewhat conceptual name: Olfactory Series One.

This first Jil Sander fragrance collection fuses botany and technology, earth and science in six minimalist, unisex formulas. A string runs through with the olfactory mark of aldehydes that cut across key natural ingredients, giving every fragrance a unique emotion, shape and volume.

Olfactory Series 1 was created in collaboration with five great perfumers working in the world of scent now: Julie Massé, Mathilde Bijaoui, Nathalie Lorson, Bérénice Watteau, and Paul Guerlain, all of whom worked with the then-creative directors, Lucie and Luke Meier.

On paper, the idea was simple: To bring together the ideals of botany and technology in six minimalist, unisex formulas. Parred back and ‘clean’ like the house. An olfactory mark ran through all; aldehydes cutting across with key natural ingredients, a thread to tie them into a collection: Unique in form and function. But not a simple concept to create, of course.

Not unlike the initial ideals of their fashion, the perfumes have a radical angle. These compositions use only the essentials: Each juice is infused with only three key natural ingredients, alongside the synthetic molecules of aldehydes (a soft powdery note), and an alcohol that was from upcycled carbon emissions, and water.

This process has allowed for a true clarity to each elixir, and brings with it a human and earth connection. Each is a distinct, clear version that is complex in its making but yet feels simple and modern to wear. And it’s good to know that each bottle is also refillable.

The collection is as follows: Black Tea, Leaf, Earth, Miel, Coffea and Smoke. Each fragrance is housed in a dome-shaped glass container enclosure with a white cloche to protect it.

Leaf was created with perfumer Julie Massé and is a lush green whirl of freshness.  

It opens with a brightness of upcycled Key Lime, an acidic Lime native to tropical Southeast Asia. The heart is made up of Cornmint for a rush of minty freshness from India, and is rounded off at the base with a fresh spice of CO₂ extracted soft-spicy Cardamom, which also echoes back the minty green balamic facets of earlier notes.

Black Tea used in scent is a beautiful, light, refreshing spice, and here it has been refashioned as a note with Nathalie Lorson

It opens with the warming, comforting spice of upcycled Cinnamon from Sri Lanka, followed by a slightly floral Osmanthus from China with her added facets of fruity apricot and peach notes, finished off with smoky, black leather, earthy tones of CO₂ extracted Black Tea. A truly modern take on a tea and spice scent.

Miel (honey) was created with Mathilde Bijaoui and is a peaceful, clean, yet inviting scent. An unusual take on a floral, which brings a modern interpretation to flowers.

This is a fragrance that works very much with the aldehydes as they fuse with soft wood of upcycled Cedarwood, the delicious dry grassy roots of Vetiver from Madagascar and a stunning CO₂ extract of the great note of Jasmine Grandiflorum. But the Buckwheat Honey is the cornerstone of this juice with its woody, earthy, and slightly smoky, somewhat treacle-like facets.

Next up in the collection, find the grounding wet scent of Earth created with Julie Massé. An elixir inspired by the smell of rain and earth.

It opens with the regal Rose Centifolia from Grasse, France and an upcycled Rose Damascena absoflor-up extract, in its heart, which, alongside the aldehydes, brings a pumped-up explosion of Rose. The finale comes from CO₂ extracted Patchouli leaves with sexy, wet-earthy notes. This Floral Chypre is a modernist dream.

Then let’s explore Coffea created with Paul Guerlain, for a fresh take on an ambery floral.

This opens with Orris, a beautiful note in perfumery with facets as wide-ranging as powdery, floral, and earthy, alongside nuances of violet and suede. Here again, the Orris is upcycled. Its heart is, of course, the rich depth of coffee beans, which have been extracted via CO₂ process. The early morning hit of coffee aroma wrapped with aldehydes. Finally, to bring an almost contrasting note comes Peru Balsam from El Salvador, balsamic, woody and resinous, with hints of smoke and power that echo the Orris at the top.

Finally, in Olfactory Series One is the sixth scent. Meet Smoke, which was created with Bérénice Watteau. A yin-yang of dark and light, cool and hot and very sexy, spicy, dirty and clean.

It opens with spicy, lemony, balsamic and invigorating CO₂ extracted Elemi, which is followed by warm, dry facets of spice from upcycled Cedarwood. Its final brings Cade from Spain, thrilling with its smoky, woody, and resinous notes. Smokey and fresh all at the same time.

Each of the six within the collection defines the norms of perfumery, and each takes its own stripped-back yet complex journey. One that echoes the very heart of the house; its values, its visuals and its ethos. The values and respect given are a much-needed reminder that DNA must always be at the heart of greatness. And these are not just delicious as juices, but they are the very bottled DNA of Jil Sander.

If you enjoyed reading Jil Sander’s Beautiful and Conceptual Scent Bottled to Perfection, then why not read Revealing The Art of Desire here

Find Olfactory Series One here at JilSander.com, Olfactory Series 1 is now available in Selfridges Jil Sander | Selfridges

.Cent Magazine London. Luxury Thinking