Eight Love Stories Through The Food of India

Creativity can show itself through many different media, as can love: food is one of those arenas that allows for both to shine. Roop Partap Choudhary created the restaurant Colonel Saab as a love letter to India, to his family and his heritage, and to tell the rich stories of the subcontinent through its food and art. The real food of India in London and a fine dining experience. Find out more in Five Love Stories Through The Food of India

We love our food, but we also show love to others through our food. An international language is found all around the world in homes and in restaurants. Roop Partap Choudhary spent a year retracing his family’s footsteps across India by train, bus and car to curate contemporary twists on dishes passed down through the generations of people they met, from homes to royal kitchens and street markets, with many regional specialities appearing for the first time on a London menu.

Having spent his childhood travelling India, experiencing its rich diversity of food, from traditional lunches in the tents of Rajasthan to stunning palaces hosted by Indian nobility and Maharajas, this became the bedrock for his restaurant, Colonel Saab.

Family images with thanks to Partap Choudhary

The name came from his father, who was given the honorific name, had a decorated career, leading to postings across India, introducing Roop to its diverse cultures, stories and authentic flavours.

But to top it off, it’s not just the food that tells tales here. The restaurants’ precious art and artefacts also tell the story of India’s rich history and cultures, and include vibrant 16th century Tanjore art on wood; handmade wooden doors from temples of Gujarat and Nepal; fine porcelain plates from the 18th century; Warli paintings in a form dating back to 2500 BCE; three Bakhtiari and Kilim rugs decorating the walls; miniature paintings; detailed, antique Phulkari floral embroidery; a precious Rabab lute; to heavily adorned, gilt Kimkhwab embroidery and a Mughal Zardosi Embroidered Fan.

So, coming in at number eight, find Jaipuri Baby Aloo, for which he says

Our Jaipuri Baby Aloo is based on my mother’s take on the recipe, which usually includes chicken. It comes from the region of Rajasthan, which is famous for its grand palaces, kings, queens and rich, meat-heavy cuisine.

Like all Indian regions, the cuisine is influenced by the availability or scarcity of ingredients. The Bedouin tribes of Rajasthan would hunt for their food, which is why meat plays such a huge role in their traditional dishes. 

But it was also a very dry state. Water was so scarce that they wouldn’t waste it in sauces like gravy. So, dishes from this part of India tend to use delicious mixes of spices and are served without sauce.

My mother’s take changed as we moved around India, particularly as the size of potatoes changed from large in the south to smaller in the north.

My favourite, which I brought back here, is with smaller potatoes with the skin on, and served without chicken, as there was too much meat when we travelled around Rajasthan.

Next up in this tale of dishes comes Cauliflower 65

In India, many of our regions promote vegetarianism, so cauliflower is very popular, but the way in which it’s prepared is unique to its geography.

This dish tells the story of the coastal regions of Southern India, where palm trees and coconuts are in abundance, and that is the only area where cooking with coconut milk or oil is common.

Some believe this Southern Indian dish was created in 1965, others say it got its name from the number of chillies in it, and many insist 65 was the menu number on the original dish.

Now for an Indian take on something rather British, Sunday Lamb Curry

The lamb curry was brought to India by the British Raj and became a staple of our culture. As mutton was expensive, most families could only treat themselves once a week to a lamb curry, which is how it became known as the Sunday Lamb Curry, rather like the UK’s Sunday Roast. 

It is also known as the Railway Lamb Curry, as it was cooked by chefs working on the Indian railways, and that is how it became so special to me.

During my boarding school days, I would take the Raj Thani sleeper train from Delhi to Bombay, where I’d pick up a car and drive to wherever my parents were stationed.

I loved that train, because it meant seeing my parents, sometimes after a whole year apart.

The train catered to boarding school children like me, with a special carriage for kids travelling alone.

My lasting memory of the Raj Thani is the delicious Sunday Lamb Curry they served on board. I never ordered anything else and that dish still takes me back to being a child, eager to see my parents again.

It originated in the Northern region; it has huge cultural significance in regions like Bengal, where families gather to share it on a Sunday, and with the railways, it spread across India and now, around the world.

Memsaab’s Chicken Curry is high up on the list, too

This silky, mildly spiced dish is a tribute to the “Memsaab” – colonial ladies of old India – and represents Anglo-Indian legacy cuisine. Creamy yet delicate, it features tender chicken simmered in sweet spices, reminiscent of home-cooked curries adapted for European palates. 

The use of cashews and cream softens the curry, echoing the fusion of British and Indian flavours during the Raj. 

This was a favourite of mine as a child, and the recipe changed as my family moved around the continent, as the availability of spices and ingredients varied from state to state. 

In the South, turmeric would be in abundance, and in the East, my mother would use mutton instead of chicken. Enjoy this dish to taste how tradition and adaptation blend to create something truly Indian yet subtly global.

Also, a dish from Kerala, Nadan Meen Curry

Hailing from Kerala, the “land of spices,” this South Indian fish curry balances coconut milky tang with fiery chilli and tamarind notes. 

Accompanied by Malabar paratha, dal, and beans poriyal, it highlights Kerala’s signature technique of slow-cooking seafood with fresh curry leaves and coconut. 

The dish captures the exuberance of coastal cuisine and the cultural authenticity that Colonel Saab’s menu celebrates.

Mall Road’s Dahi Sev Puri highlights some Northern Indian Cuisine

A playful take on chaat from Northern India, this dish transforms street food into gastronomy. 

Inspired by the iconic “Mall Road” snack stalls, it bursts with sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce, cooling yoghurt, crisp puris, puffed rice, and rose petals. 

It narrates the story of Indian street food culture—vibrant, communal, and deeply rooted in regional identity.

The holy grail of Paneer comes next with Kandhari Paneer Tikka

Named after Kandahar, this paneer dish is a cross-border creation with yoghurt-marinated paneer stuffed with prunes and pomegranate, grilled and served with tomato, garlic mustard salsa. 

It connects agrarian Punjab with Central Asian influences, combining creamy dairy with tart fruit, creating a flavour bridge that mirrors centuries of cultural exchange.

And finally, on our cultural tour is Gutti Vankaya

This Andhra-style baby aubergine dish tells the story of Southern India’s love for tangy tamarind and bold spice blends. Stuffed aubergines braise slowly in a curry leaf, tamarind-infused sauce, a homage to Andhra Pradesh’s fiery, tang-forward flavour profile. Every bite showcases the region’s culinary pride with vibrant vegetarian complexity.

Food, as we know, is a currency of love, and love is global. It crosses every culture, race, colour, and religion. It is a gift, food from the gods, if you will, and nothing tastes better than food made with family heritage, wrapped in familial love

Find everything you want to know about the restaurant here at Colonel Saab.co.uk, as well as all the branches.

If you enjoyed reading Eight Love Stories Through The Food of India, then why not read Architectural Museums Marvel, Here