The Fascinating Story; Monks, a Queen and Italian Perfume

Travelling back to the Island of Capri in 1380, The Prior of the Carthusia Monastery of San Giacomo had a surprise visit from the supposedly vivacious Queen Joan I Anjou. In order to decorate her rooms, the best bouquets of flowers from the island were placed in her rooms. The Lingering scented water once the flowers were discarded once she had departed, started this island’s journey with perfume. This is the connection between Italians, specifically the Italian Island of Capri, Perfume, Monks and a Queen that started a story that is still alive and well. Find out more about the historical and Italian scented perfume brand Carthusia fragrances continue to be developed from the ancient distillation techniques that were used by the monks in 1380 here and how the orins were scaled up for today in The Fascinating Story; Monks, a Queen and Italian Perfume

When talking of perfumes, the story usually takes the journey of scents made from the Middle East via the trade routes, over 2000 years ago. Yes, this is true for resinous fragrances whose ingredients grew wild and free, and are even mentioned in the Old Testament with a recipe for sacred incense. Yet there is another story; a more European one.

The history of Carthusia perfumes emanates from the monastery of San Giacomo on the Island of Capri. So this is the fascinating Story of Monks, a Queen and Italian perfume. This idea of water perfumed by flowers is probably why we have the term Toilette Water. Let’s explain.

Image Владимир Шеляпин

So this monastery had a regal visitor. The island’s abundant flowers were steeped with water in vases for her stay. She never arrived due to bad weather but the flowers sat in a vase for three days. When the water was about to be thrown away it was noted by the Prior of the Carthusia Monastery of San Giacomo that the water held scent. And so he and other monks went about making perfumes, in celebration of this unique island; Capri.

Now most monks, nuns and other closed orders would have maintained a medical garden and would make healing items in their Apothecary. So the step towards perfume is not as strange as it may initially seem.

The ancient distillation of native flowers such as wild Carnations and Lily of the Valley were mixed as tinctures alongside Oak, Amber and Sandalwood which became the cornerstone developed to make the fragrances for modern perfumery brand Carthusia.

Do you love to travel? The island itself has been a resort since the time of the Roman Republic and still today tourist numbers are high as are visitors and residents from the creative industries. European artists, writers and other celebrities including Mariah Carey and Jennifer Lopez reside there or go for inspiration. Its chic reputation laid the base for even a style of trousers to be named after it. Capri pants are 3/4 length trousers most popular in the 1950s and 1980s.

Capri is a presently wonderful place for tourism, but it’s more; there’s a deep legacy there, a mystery, a healing heritage, that reaches back far in time and passes, time and time again into the present era. Again this legacy of the island is part of what holds Carthusia Perfumery so important.

The varied flora and fauna and the Mediterranean Sea, the perfect holiday resort, allow for many ingredients for the perfumes to be derived exclusively from the environment. Handpicked Rosemary from Monte Solaro is used as the main essence for male fragrances and the emblematic wild Carnation as the basis for women. 

In 1948 the Prior of the Monastery discovered the ancient perfume formulas and, with permission of the Pope ( who would have thought that the Church jurisdiction would include perfume?) revealed them to a chemist from Torino. He then set up one of the smallest professional laboratories in the world, which came to be known as “Carthusia” named after their order of monks.

The idea of keeping things close to home is carried forward. A tiny fragrance laboratory is located exactly a few steps from the Gardens of Augustus. Carthusia has been aiming for over 20 years to be the maximum expression of Made in Italy in the niche perfume sector.

So what does one of the most beautiful places in the world smell like?

Let’s start with Fiori di Capri (image on left) a unisex fragrance from the Chypre Floral group. It was launched on the market in 1948 and was the first perfume of the house and echoes back to its historical roots, with a heart of carnation and was built from the original 1380s recipe.

A bright lively opening of vibrant Orange, Mandarin Orange, and Orange Blossom, alongside elegant floral notes via Turkish Rose and white Flowers. This melds into a heart with emblematic Carnation alongside ‘rooty-powdery facets of Iris, the soft warm spice of Cloves and Nutmeg tied together with White Honey.

The crescendo of this enigmatic signature scent is a wood fusion that includes Sandalwood, Cedar, Patchouli, and Oakmoss. Alongside the softest White Musk, warming Amber, and Labdanum that hints back to the musk but also brings a leathery, ‘animalic’ finish. 

Aria Di Capri  EDP

Nothing quite brings the same sensation as the smell of a sea breeze against her blue skies, think of a nautical breeze. The warm sun allows for fresh flowers to flourish and bright citrus blooms abundantly.

This Citrus, Flowery scent celebrates where floral Mimosa fuses with Iris, and gets its power from the essence of Lemon, Orange and the sweet notes of juicy Peach; bringing an almost visual suggestion of the island.

Next up A’mmare EDP which melds a different facet of the island’s lush tundra. The vibrant blue of the sea gives up her salt crystals, and the yellow-green of citrus bright Bergamot meets with woody aromatic herby Rosemary. This gives an oceanic twist to the lively citrus opening.

Its heart brings a water accord set off with the freshness of lively green Mint. While the fragrance settles into a woody finale with Cedar, earthy Patchouli and warming musks.

From the hill and cliffs above Anacapri, there are lovely, warm woods and a hint of Mint that brings the aquatic theme alive, as if you could jump from there and plunge into the refreshing waters of the sea.

Mediterraneo EDP

But don’t think the house just specialises in perfume. It offers body, home, accessories and barbershop items, as well as gift sets. For example:-

Travel clutch bag from the Mediterraneo Line. Dedicated to the cradle of the great civilizations of Europe, Africa, Asia, and Mediterraneo. A sunny, broad and original perfume that harmonizes the classic and clean freshness of lemon leaves with the young and sparkling notes of green tea. Fresh revitalising and sparkling with a final musk wrap of warmth. Giving the wearer a glowing mist around them.

A lemon clutch bag to always carry with you, when travelling and even on your daily commute, or the perfect gift to introduce loved ones to this magnificent house. Included are miniatures of all the products in the six available lines.

The new 10 ml Carthusia, 25 ml Hand Cream, 50 ml Shower Gel,
a 50 ml Body Cream and finally 30 gr Hand Soap.

The selection on offer all hail to celebrate this small yet perfectly formed historic island, where its flora, fauna and waters are all encapsulated in scented bottles. All the perfumes are at EDP levels.

Those who land on the island are dazzled by the light and surprised by the orography. The house of Carthusia is kept with great care and attention now by the Ruocco family, Caprese for generations who are in love with their land and are passionate about sharing the magic of the Island of Capri.

Each scent is like a kiss from the island with its biblical references. The greatest of scented elixirs go as far back as the Old Testament, so not only are you getting a whole island’s magic in a bottle, but you are also getting a mythical and spiritual experience too.

By chance you can’t make it to the island another way to engage is via Solaro Capri Gin.

Named after Capri’s highest mountain, Monte Solaro, it is a smooth, refreshing blend of aromatic citrus and complex spices that capture the exuberant and vibrant nature of Capri.

Solaro Capri Gin is made from several botanicals local to Capri including, Zagara (lemon blossom) from the Monte Solaro, sun-soaked red juniper from Cilento, Minto (myrtle) from Sorrento and Amalfi lemon peel and leaf-giving

Presented in stunning ceramic bottles that are meticulously handcrafted by a family of local artisans. Each bottle takes a week to make. The pattern on the bottles was inspired by the famous clocktower in the main square of Capri, while its decorations recall the maiolica, ceramic tiles, that are found throughout the island the citrus burst.

To find out about the brand and its full offerings please visit www.carthusia.it

Or to buy directly please visit LibertyLondon.com Here

Solaro Capri Gin has recently launched in the UK and is now available in 35cl and 70cl ceramic bottles from Boutique Brands

If you enjoyed reading The Fascinating Story; Monks, a Queen and Italian Perfume then why not read Tram Your Way Into the Art of the Belgium Coast here

.Cent Magazine, London. Be Inspired; Get Involved

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