The Muscadin; The French 18th-Century Musk-Scented Man

The Dandy may well be a very British part of history; the elegant man about town who had nothing more important to do than, be beautiful. But it was not in fact, initially a British folly. The earlier perfumed ‘boys about town’ were in late 18th century France, known as the ‘Muscadin’ for their liberal use of perfume. These ‘ruffians’ of the middle class associated grooming as an essential part of their toilette. Who knew that long before we had ‘metrosexual’ we had groomed musk-wearing men equally as elegant as their modern-day counterparts all of which stemmed from their fragrance habits. Find out more in The Muscadin; The French 18th-century Musk-Scented Man.

Image Samantha Inman @rememberingtobreathe

The image on left, Portraits collection Penhaligons Lord George. Noble patriarch, a paragon of masculine elegance, Lord George welcomes with a scent of shaving soap and warming rum. Notes include Brandy, Shaving soap, and Tonka bean with a good dash of Musk. But what secrets hide behind tradition? Created by genius perfumer and Musk Lover, Alberto Morillas. Contes De Parfums Tokyo by Anne fIipo A delicate fragrance that transports to Japan to relive a Hanami; the contemplation of cherry blossoms through the different lost corners of Tokyo. The sophisticated character of the Cherry blossom is flavoured with notes of Bergamot Tea and Rose to add freshness, while background Musk and Cotton accords pamper our skin available at Glorious Beauty.

Musk as an ingredient in scent has been a key constituent in many perfumes since its discovery, used to give scent along with its ability to add long-lasting power and work as a fixative.

During the 18th century, it would have been derived from the glands of animals such as Deer, Muskrat and Civets. A sort of brown rather unpleasant-smelling secretion was collected and then dried into a powder called ‘musk grain’. This dried powder smelt far nicer, with powdery, soft and slightly sweet facets. It is said that if a drop of real Musk oil was put on a handkerchief the scent would last over 40 years… So how did this extreme perfume ingredient translate to a French gentleman of leisure?

The Muscadin was simply a French Dandy or Fop, particularly in Paris, leading up to, and during the time of the French Revolution. Unlike their British counterparts, they did have more political leanings but were also known for their dress sense, grooming and liberal use of perfumes. They eventually numbered 2,000-3,000 with their dress sense including tightly-cut coats with extravagantly large lapels, in different colours, with large and elaborately knotted cravats and even sashes tied around their waists. These Muscadin gents took extreme elements of the fashions of the day and made them their own.

The true French dandy ‘cultivated’ a sort of ‘sceptical reserve’, with their direct opposition to the bourgeoisie. These individualists followed a code which they felt ‘in certain respects came close to spirituality and stoicism’. As well as having a dubious take on politics they were poets and writers who expressed their feelings towards their Dandy lifestyle within their works.

In the early 18th century perfumery was still tied to health and cleanliness. Yet at the same time, it was utilised lavishly. Perfumes were combed through hair, applied to skin and tied to almost every aspect of the grooming regimen. Perfume really began to hit its stride with Louis XVI and his legendary queen, Marie Antoinette.

King Louis XVI and his queen were passionate fans of perfume and helped spread the art of perfumery across France and Europe. The King appointed the apothecary and perfumer  Jean Fargeon as the first royal perfumer to meet his needs. Perfumes became the signature of Versailles’ elite and it has been said the King even wanted a different scent for each room of the palace, and for scents to flow from every fountain.

Creed Silver Mountain Water. A cool, clean and mentholated fragrance, Silver Mountain Water is reminiscent of sparkling icy streams coursing through the snow-capped Swiss Alps. This lively scent opens with notes of citrus-Bergamot, fruity-Blackcurrant, the rooty green of Galbanum & fresh Orange, the heart of vegetal-green Tea, and salt-like Ozonic Accord. Its final flourish is of uplifting Musk, and Sandalwood.

A perfume recipe still exists created by Jean-Louis Fargeon for Marie-Antoinette called Parfum de Trianon. It contained Rose, Orange Blossom, Petitgrain, Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Galbanum, Iris, Violet, Narcissus, Lily, Tuberose, Vanilla, Cedar, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Benzoin.

At this period, there was much in the way of progression and success in the perfumery field. Antoine Dejean published ‘Traité des Odeurs’ in 1777, a treaty on cosmetics that cemented perfumery’s divorce from medicine and its move towards art for art’s sake.  

Therefore, two reasons why perfumes appealed to the Dandy Man of Paris. It’s linked to Royalty, and because it was used as ‘beauty for beauty’s’ sake. But these well-toileted men would not have only worn Musk fragrances, but the term seemed like a catch-all phrase summing up their plentiful use of perfumed substances, as well at this point Musk perfumes would have been heavy even sweet and powdery; not seen as particularly ‘masculine’.

In this present day, as we have become far more conscious of animal products in cosmetics, the use of natural musk or anything animal-based is strictly prohibited. With the advent of science, laboratories have created synthetic musks using the molecule responsible for the natural musks’ smell, now made in a laboratory. Alongside the smell of this synthetic, is its ability to expand and create longevity.

So what is Musk outside of being a chemical used in perfumery? Well, there are hundreds of types of synthetic musks, probably around 300 synthetic versions for perfume makers to choose from.

As a note it can be anything from being alluring, sensual, powdery, and enticing, it can ‘encase with comfort’, and even be an aphrodisiac. On top of that, it can bring a skin-like facet to a perfume, and in its most extreme it can be animalistic, earthy and woody. And because of its reaction to other ingredients, it gives notes with a short life, a longer expanse and is also a very pliable note.

“I wanted to explore a different side of leather, approaching it like a suede texture with soft, powdery facets, wrapped in delicate white musks. The name Crème de Cuir, meaning “cream of leather,” naturally led me toward a more refined and understated interpretation, one that feels smooth and enveloping rather than dark or intense. Crème de Cuir was born from my desire to create a leather fragrance without any animalic notes—something that would feel unexpected, fresh, and almost clean.

David Benedek Founder & Creative Director BDK

The synthetic notes used as Musks will not always be referred to by their chemical names, with versions including Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide and Muscone.

Now just to throw all that in the air, certain other notes in perfumery that are not strictly Musk can have similar scents and behaviours, for example, the extract of Ambrette seed which is a plant-based alternative to Musk, Galbanum a root found in the Middle East and used in the first-ever biblical description of incense or even Angelica Root that goes all the way from strong, rich and floral, to earthy musk notes. 

Many, many perfumes contain some form of Musk so it’s no surprise it became the nickname of these French well-turned-out decadent, and nonchalant rascals. Of the French Dandy he was described thus

‘no profession other than elegance….no other status but that of cultivating the idea of beauty in their own person. The dandy must aspire to be sublime without interruption…. he must live and sleep before a mirror….’

French poet an self-confessed Dandy, Charles Baudelaire

So what does Musk smell like and how is it used and when in perfumery? Traditionally “dandified” fragrances would typically have been those that are flowery, powdery, sweet and musky. But with so much choice Musk now is not simply dismissed in the same way.

BDK Crème de Cuir a powerful elixir evoking the authentic charm of Italian cities. A nuanced trail blending grey and beige tones with links to artist Marc Rohtkos’s paintings. Green notes of Pineapple Bergamot and Mandarin open with brightness followed by Pink berries, a sun shiny Solar Accord with White suede and Sandalwood. Its grande finale is constructed of creamy Vanilla absolute, Birch
and of course soft Musks. Silky Woods by Goldfield and Banks Australia. Botanical Series by Goldfield & Banks. Showcasing the precious Agarwood harvested sustainably for the first time in perfume history in Tropical Queensland, Silky Woods is a delightful and delicate yet very sensual blend that captures Australia’s sensorial experience. A modern sillage of soft Suede, exotic Vanilla and smoky Tobacco leaves, with refined essences of Saffron, Incense, Ylang Ylang and native sandalwood. A celebration of the abundance of organic ingredients in Australia, and the home-grown innovation. The Harmonist Guiding Water is a calming fragrance that restores the wearer like the dew that dapples blossoms in the morning light. The aquatic freshness of Ozonic accord and Pink Peppercorn are paired with a bouquet of Cyclamen, Jasmine and Fleur-de-Lys. Fluid and subtle, finishing off with Lys Flower, Pink Peppercorn, and of course White Musk. It’s a delicate Yin scent that awakens and refines.

Common as it is in the world of elixir it is still considered a special note for perfumer creators. Many consider it a note used in female fragrances but it is a universal ingredient

“Musk in men’s fragrance today is all about subtle power. It’s no longer the bold, heavy note of the past – instead, it’s refined, clean, and sensual, adding depth without overpowering. In my fragrance Silky Woods, musk intertwines with warm, smoky Oud, rich Tobacco, soft Suede, and verdant Agarwood. It’s a scent that’s modern, luxurious and utterly distinctive.”

Dimitri Weber, Founder & Creative Director for Goldfield & Banks.

In our present-day world, a man who is well-groomed would not be questioned regarding his use of perfume; he would just be seen as a well-turned-out gent. In the spirit of freedom, chose and individuality; go celebrate the glorious vanity and preening of the Muscadins and coddle yourself in Marvellous Musk

Find all you need to know about BDK.com Here. Everything you want to know about Goldfield and Banks .com here and everything you want to know about The Harmonist.com here, Contes De parfum Here, CreedPerfumes.com Here and finally Penhaligons here

If you enjoyed reading The Muscadin; The French 18th-century Musk-Scented Man, then why not read Verse Velvet and Vanity here

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